Next project for this truck
I ordered the new rotors and pads a month ago.
Decided to get this done while waiting on the over-heat issue.
2wd 4wABS
It was a tough job getting the calipers removed. RUST bad. Pads were very thin rusted to the sliders a real mess. Plus all the bolts were rusted. Lot of rust buster, tap tap with hammer all came out but one on the caliper frame.
Had to heat the frame with the propane touch. Long breaker bar and pipe, it broke loose.
Decided to get new calipers. They were a rusted mess.
Cleaned up the caliper frames.

I was going to grease the wheel bearings, but they are held on by a big BIG nut that is really tight. Research tells me these are bearing hubs not removable taper bearings?? Like 100 plus pound torque. So I am not going to mess with them. I think they are not serviceable?

I took pictures will post to my Goggle Photo site after it all back together.

Took me about 6 hrs to disassemble everything. Then clean up the rust on all the mating surfaces.
I will try to remove the rubber brake lines and replace. Been soaking the steel lines and wire brushed the rust off the lines and the nuts. I have to buy the tubing wenches 3/8 an 9/16 and hope I can get them off.
Hope to get this back together today and Fri.

 

Yep, hub/bearing unit with integrated wheel speed sensor. The big nut is torqued to something to the tune of 185 ft/lbs...... and no, they are not serviceable. If they go bad, you replace the whole thing.

Why is the truck so rusty???? Do they use salt on the road down there???

 

Truck is from Il. Rust belt. Prev owner stored it in a barn shed when not used, doubt they ever washed the under carriage off after a snow storm. Not much body metal damage just all the bolts and unprotected steel. I have sprayed rust inhibitor over most of it.
Not much salt used here in TN and I dont drive it in the bad WX.

Did have some luck today. Picked up the new calipers. Wire brushed all the parts.
I was able to get one brake hose off the rusted brake lines. Lots of rust buster and wire brush the fitting. I bought the correct tools, tube line wrench set. Was able to get the wrench on the fitting, with some lite tapping I broke it loose. One new hose installed.
Will try the other Fri. Then put it all back together.

 

Ah, things come clearly now.

Yeah, I live right smack in the rust belt myself..... and the body of my truck shows it. In spades...... Very little left of my rear bumper...... and lotsa holes elsewhere as well.

 

Brake job DONE.
As posted above - one day to get this apart, 1/2 day to get parts, and today to get it back together.
Est 14 hrs of labor. The RUST made it a real buster job.

Pictures at my Google Photo Site
https://goo.gl/photos/5gAaJYmk9QYRApde8

One major problem I had was with the new pads and sliders not fitting the caliper frame. It was really rusted with slivers of the old parts. I had to grind the trash off to clean metal. Cover with grease, installed on the wheel, the pads fit great and slide easy. That took about an hr to figure it out and 15m to fix it.

I did replace both brake hoses YEAH. Had to make cut outs in the wheel well plastic to get a clear shot at the steel lines and the fitting. With some easy tapping I got the fittings loose. LUCKY. No damage to tubing.

My power bleeder did not fit my master cylinder, so I drained then refilled the master cyl and employed wife as the power pedal pusher. Bleed the entire system. Ran about a 1/2 qt though it.

Short run to seat the pads. Then a couple of high speed runs to get a little heat on the rotors.. WOW does it ever stop. I guess I was lucky I did not have a problem before, pulling the trailer.

I can give more details about the pictures, if needed.

On to the next problem - the running hot issue.

 

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Nothing like fixing it yourself right and checking that task off the list. Now, on to the next challenge..