I have a 2001 dodge ram and the heat nor the air would stay on. I also heard a clicking noise from under the dash. I removed the actuator and had a broke coupler. My question is should I replace the actuator or was my problem just the coupler.

 

There is a site out there that sells a metal fix, looking...

 

http://www.heatertreater.net

 

Easy install and works. Great product.

 

Heater treater works great have it in both of my trucks

 

I pulled my dash replaced heater core, Evap core, blower motor, blower motor resistor. and while I was at it the blend door actuator. Well this darn thing is kicking my butt! I can not for the life of me get this little actuator to function. When I turn the temp dial to full cold the motor loads up and then it quits. It will not move until I unhook the harness wire and re plug it in. If I turn it full hot the motor loads up much the same but it will still keep working and allow me to rotate back to cold. What gives here? I’ve unhooked batteries, read the service manual about putting the temp dial at 12 o clock and u hooking batteries to re calibrate it. I can use about 2/3 of the travel in the cold direction and the I’m done. So much time spent reAding is regarding the plastic coupler cracking. My coupler is not cracked! The actuator is simply traveling further than the door seems to be able to without it going out on some sort of resistance override. This actuator is a brand new eBay cheap part and I’m about to throw the original 2000 one in. I would have done that awhile ago but I’m missing the metal coupler on the actuator and the new one acts like it’s going to require enough force to remove it that may be an end all for the new actuator. Anyone have any idea why this thing is being difficult? How can I calibrate it? I’ve tried splitting it and reinstall indexing the gears but as soon as I plug it back in it rotates around to the exact same place.

 

Why did you replace the original? Just get the heatertreater kit and use the original. There's instructions on how to index it.

 

I would love to, problem being the drive hub is no longer on the original. I’ve tried removing the hub on the new one and it acts like they make it a permanent assembly. I wasn’t ready to commit to breaking a 50. Part just to see. I have no clue if it worked before. Im not familiar with the truck and haven’t driven it much at all. I think I had thoughts of changing the gears because the new one doesn’t have the same timing mark in it like the original. I tried that yesterday and found the new one has a black gear with a tiny mark on it. I assembled it like that was the same as the embossed mark on the original and it was off still. The replacement has 4 pins and the original has 3. My gut feeling is this replacement is close to being the right one but it’s not exactly the same. I sent and email to the company I bought it from to see what input they might have. Thanks for the reply.

 

Were you able to resolve this issue? My 99 Ram 1500 has become a source of frustration. Pulled the dash and heater/ac assembly for complete rebuild (leaking heater core, vacuum cans, foam kit, evaporator, everything). The original blend door motor no longer works, anti-freeze damage from heater core leak. The new motor rotates about half to two-thirds of a rotation, while the blend door is only a quarter turn rotation. The new motor will turn when not mounted to the door, but will not turn the door at all when mounted. The door is not in a bind and turns easily. I haven't found anything on-line related to "programming" of "configuring" the new motor. It is a four pin motor, but that doesn't seem to matter on my three pin truck. I have not tried a salvage yard motor out of a 99 or 2000, but that is looking like my next adventure. Otherwise, I'll configure a cable to the shaft and create a manual system. It shouldn't be this difficult.

 

The new motor has to be indexed. I think the heater treater site has instructions on how to do that.