I hope this is allowed to post on this thread. My truck is a 95 318 auto having the same issue. Truck warms up but very little heat. I will try back flushing heater core. My diverter is operated by a cable? What are my next steps if back flushing does not work? Bought the truck at 39,000 miles and had the same issue since....now was almost 100,000. Thanks

 

When the motor is turning the coupler about halfway or so thru u hear a clicking noise and the actuator keeps going but u don't see the coupler stopping

 

Should start your own thread for this, as your heater control system is completely different than what we are dealing with here.

There is no diverter for coolant flow, the heater core always has flow. The temp (blend) door IS cable controlled though. There is an adjustment procedure in the service manual, found here. But, I suspect your problem is an air pocket in the core itself. Backflushing carefully will take care of that, just try and keep as much water in the core as possible when you put the hoses back together.

Order the heater treater, follow the instructions, and you will be all set.

 

Am I gonna have to take the air box out of the dash?

 

No. Please watch the video that explains the repair process -

 

No, you don't have to take the dash apart. The one screw is easy. The one closer to the firewall, here's what I did- I used this

http://t.harborfreight.com/8-piece-r....google.com%2F

And I also just used the Phillips bit out of the kit, my thumb on the end holding it, turning it with a very small crescent or box wrench.

It also helps to cut out the carpet a bit.

 

I can barely get to the screw to touch it. If I can get that screw out is the issue gonna be the actuator or coupler?

 

In case I need to get around that bos there a video that shows step by step to get to the air box and take it out? I don't have carpet. It's washable plastic flooring and I was thinking about cutting part of that and the flooring back to get to the screw hopefully

 

Yes, cut the mat and the sound-deadening material. Get a "mechanics" mirror, a mirror on a rod that you can rotate and position to seethed screw. So you get a better idea of the big picture.

The problem is the coupler.

There may be a video but I haven't checked.

 

Preciate the info. If this works it will save me alot of money and time. I'll work on it in the morning and update what happens