front driver side axle seal leaking
I've got a small pool in the axle housing where the u joint is and down on the ground a bit too. it is most definitely gear oil.
my question is to change that axle seal, do you have to take out both axle shafts and the carrier to install new seals?
my question is to change that axle seal, do you have to take out both axle shafts and the carrier to install new seals?
i just did the pass u joint back in feb of this year, the hubs are maybe close to 2 years old, when i replaced them i did do the cheapest ones from rockauto. i wouldnt mind getting the timken hubs. just dont think its necessary. the driver side u joint is shot, i already tried to fix that but one of the 12 point hub bolts was stuck damn good so i postponed that fix for the time being till i can get my hands on a torch. ive got to looking at axle seals on rockauto, i see that they are side specific. im assuming you cant go wrong with either the skf or timken seal?
ive also been looking into regearing my truck, it would be nice to do all this at once. i dont think this leak is a fix it now sort of thing. just have to keep an eye on it.
ive also been looking into regearing my truck, it would be nice to do all this at once. i dont think this leak is a fix it now sort of thing. just have to keep an eye on it.
The driver side is the easier side. Good that you know the ujoint is bad so you can at least kill two birds. I always have a shop tear into the front end. Something about gears and backlash and such that still scares me. Had my seals done twice because one shop messed them up. Second shop still holding after about 9 years. I would get Timken but that's because I love their stuff. OEM hubs too. I got over 100k on my second set. Just had new ones put on in spring. I'm at 208k.
The driver side is the easier side. Good that you know the ujoint is bad so you can at least kill two birds. I always have a shop tear into the front end. Something about gears and backlash and such that still scares me. Had my seals done twice because one shop messed them up. Second shop still holding after about 9 years. I would get Timken but that's because I love their stuff. OEM hubs too. I got over 140k on my second set. Just had new ones put on in spring. I'm at 208k. Get spicer 5-760x joints.
That's what every shop told me. Both sides required carrier removal, and the passenger side is so hard to access that you need a special tool. The driver side is right there behind the pumpkin. The shop that messed mine up got the driver side correct but had the passenger side all ****-eyed. It's the harder seal to replace. Maybe not the longest in hours.
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The passenger side can be done without removing the carrier. Just take the CAD housing off, pull the hub/bearing, and outer axle, and it's easy. Just need the special tool to install the seal. (and folks have simply made one out of threaded rod, a couple nuts and washers......)
Drivers side you MUST remove the carrier, to even be able to see the damn seal.
Drivers side you MUST remove the carrier, to even be able to see the damn seal.







