Yes it had become one with ther parts and it is very unpleasant to remove.


Actually there were signs of a small weep coming from the heater hose where it clamps on to the fitting.

I suggest you remove the factory hose spring clamps the slide a thin screwdriver under the hose in a couple places and spray some WD-40 etc in there . Then try to rotate the hose on the fitting until it breaks free . Then remove it and clean everything then put a thin coating of grease on the inside of the hoses and outside of the fittings then install hose clamps then install the hoses on the housing . Clock/position the clamps so you can tighten them with the housing installed and tighten them with a socket . A 1/4" drive with an extension will be easiest . The hoses may weep slightly at first until they get hot which will soften them a little at which time you can tighten them a little more which will stop any weeping.

I also put a little grease on the bolt threads but not anti seize as they may come loose with this.

 

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the tabs on the sender that hold the plug on are tapered on both ends . this means that the plug is designed to be insatalled AND removed by hand without any tools, however since the plastic on the plug is not very flexible and it is installed dry, it can be very difficult to pull out and may break something in the process, therefore, I would also recommend filing the tabs down on the sender just a tiny bit then putting dielectric grease on it so the plug can easily be pulled off by hand just in case one ever has to do this very unpleasant project again.

The gasket is now completely gone from the housing hooray!

No off to tackle the gasket on the truck.

 

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Well the bottom ring on the top seal of the new stant t stat was installed upside down and the t stat will stick up above the surface this way so check to see that the metal ring is installed with the flat part against the seal.

 

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The Gates t stat comes with an air bleed hole p/n 34319 for 190 degrees.

 

The gates t stats are the same as the stant but cost more, therefore stant makes them for gates.

rock auto has the lowest prices on most parts

the stant superstat with the bleed hole is p/n 15229

 

got the new 190 t stat in . drilled a 3/16" hole in it near the top . filled the rad to the top on level ground . the fluid level dropped arund 2 iches after around 1 minute . put more fluid in . had to top it off 3 times then ran it . then checked it . it was still full . it got to 185 with the ir gun . heater will sear ones flesh off on a 75 degree day . no gurglng nises in the core when it is turned off so the hole in the t stat definitely helped get at least most if not al of the sir out.

friggen temp gauge still read around 140 and has check engine light . installed new sender and removed battery cable to reset computer to remove code then started engine and the light came back on and gauge still reads low so i started a new thread and will mess with it today before i push it off a cliff.

 

I was reading back through this and noticed you said it you weren't sure yet. Did you end up getting a v-10? I know you had talked about it for a while.


Also@barnett, did you say you replaced the seal that was a PITA down it block? Was wondering how you got the old one out and new one in if you did? I looked for that tool they say to use, and it's not cheap for a one or two time use. Not finding a rental either which doesn't surprise me. I read where a guy tried using his seal driver set and the sizes jumped from too big to too small.

 

Why yes, yes I did. There is a thread in the General Discussion forum about it. The Replacement Truck.

 

Sweet ! Will read up on it. This is good news for us V10'ers.

 

luckily my seal was still good and the od of the t stat was nearly identical to the orig so i did not need to replace the seal.