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Torque converter problems? 46re

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Old May 8, 2017 | 08:43 PM
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Check the crank sensor. It sits between the block, and bellhousing, right behind the passenger side head, if you don't pull it before you pull or install the trans, chances are good you destroyed it. Also check for pinched wires.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 08:55 PM
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That's kinda what I was thinking. I'm learning as I go here so how do I tell if that's the problem and if it is , I can change it without taking out the transmission (for a Third time) right?
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 09:40 PM
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Might be easier if you pull the trans.......

Just kidding.

See what's missing, spark, or fuel. Does the fuel pump prime when you first turn the key on?
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 10:11 PM
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I will listen for pump and also check for spark tomorrow as it got dark out and also I drained the bat tryin to start it. I did "flutter" the key and there are no codes ,it reads p done . Would crank sensor throw a code if the truck hasn't even been started since the install?
 
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Old May 9, 2017 | 08:43 AM
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Only if the PCM figures out it isn't working...... Which is a real crap shoot.
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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So it was the crank sensor, I replaced it and the truck started. I topped off the fluid and drove about a mile for a test drive. My o/d off light came on which means the transmission is getting to hot so I shut it down and felt that the cooler and the lines were cold still . I'm assuming there is a clog in the line somewhere because I know the pump was pumping cause i had a leaky fitting I had to tighten when I first started it. I Hooked a 10 ft section of clear pressure tubing to both nipples on the transmission hoping to be able to confirm the pump was flowing but now when I turn the key I get nothing. There's plenty of juice in the battery, everything works but the starter doesn't even make a sound
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 08:44 PM
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Recheck your battery connections. They can 'appear' tight, but, they aren't....

Do you even hear the starter relay click? Does the gauges test? Any lights in the cluster?

Still have the check valve in your trans cooler lines? If you do, get rid of it.
 
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Old May 11, 2017 | 10:50 PM
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All gauges work ,terminals are tight, there is no click at all from the starter and also the lights don't dim like the usually do when I turn the key to start the truck. also I abandoned the check valve and factory cooler and put in new lines and a new cooler. I did have to splice a foot or so of trans hose onto one of the lines to make it long enough to reach the rear port on the trans as I could only find the shorter of the 2 lines at all the local stores so I just got 2 of that one . Could it possibly be the neutral safety switch or maybe the starter ?
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 08:37 AM
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Starter solenoid gets it's cue from a relay in the PDC, that's what the ignition switch is actually controlling. Do you hear the relay click when you hit the key? If not, try swapping the starter relay for another one. (they are all pretty much the same.) If you still don't get the relay click, time to start tracing wires. Entirely possible it could be the neutral safety switch. Could try jiggling the shift lever around while you try and start it.
 
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Old May 12, 2017 | 07:09 PM
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So I can hear a click from the relay but still nothing from the starter. Is there a way to bypass the neutral safety switch to se if that's the problem. Also I had a 96 chevy 20 conversion van that I could start by putting a screwdriver across the posts on the starter , would that work with the starter in my ram?
 
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