Best way for Cleaning intake
So I spent a good 2 hours at the junkyard today pulling some parts, one of which is a Keg intake off a 94. I made sure to get the one with the egr port.
I'll be cutting down the runners, as well as taking the center divider out, and grinding out where the fuel injectors go for better atamization.
But this intake is NASTY. How would y'all go about cleaning the carbon and soot buildup from inside the intake.



I know I'm going to take it to the machineist to check for trueness and flatness of all mounting surfaces, and one of the bolts for the thermostat housing snapped off in the Intake aswell. Should i just have them clean it? I know some small shops around here don't like when you bring them the dirty as crap stuff.
It says in the DIY, that 1-1.5 or something around there is ok for the 5.2, and you can take out the runner for the 5.9. How much does he mean by that?
I'll be cutting down the runners, as well as taking the center divider out, and grinding out where the fuel injectors go for better atamization.
But this intake is NASTY. How would y'all go about cleaning the carbon and soot buildup from inside the intake.



I know I'm going to take it to the machineist to check for trueness and flatness of all mounting surfaces, and one of the bolts for the thermostat housing snapped off in the Intake aswell. Should i just have them clean it? I know some small shops around here don't like when you bring them the dirty as crap stuff.
It says in the DIY, that 1-1.5 or something around there is ok for the 5.2, and you can take out the runner for the 5.9. How much does he mean by that?
Last edited by CJSuhr; Mar 12, 2017 at 09:37 PM.
First, remove the plenum plate off of it. Then, from the bottom side, spray the inside of the intake down with some Purple Stuff cleaner (either Castrol brand or generic) and let it sit awhile, then hose it off. If you have a self-serve car wash nearby that has self-serve power sprayers, that works real well when hosing it off. Spray it again with the purple cleaner and repeat the rinse. Once you get it as clean as you can with this process to degrease it and let it dry, I would have the machine shop (or a friend with a decent bead blasting cabinet) bead blast it thoroughly clean with glass beads. I did my kegger this way and it came out very nice.
It says in the kegger mod DIY, that 1-1.5 or something around there is ok for the 5.2, and you can take out the runner for the 5.9. How much does he mean by that?
And how do I measure that? From the top of the runner down, and cut at diagonally, or horizontally?
And how do I measure that? From the top of the runner down, and cut at diagonally, or horizontally?
I just cut down the runners to a convenient spot. It'll be obvious once you look in there. Keep in mind, the center divider on yours also has the passage for EGR... which sticks out to about the middle of the intake. I am not sure what effect cutting that back to the keg wall would have on its distribution among the cylinders, but, I doubt that it would be even... That may cause some problems......
Does it matter that the egr is there? I'll be taking the center divider out, and then cutting the egr tube back. In theory, there is only one cylinder sucking air at a time, and the egr only operates under old/acceleration. So i don't think it should effect anything at all. Once i get it cleaned up and check for tolerance, I'll draw a few lines and ask what's best for the runners. I guess 1.5 is a good even point. Would you reccomend cutting them flat, or angled like in the DIY?
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I cut them angled down, so, maybe 1.5 inches on the inside, tapering off to just about nothing by the time it got to the edge of the intake. I think a good chunk of the idea was to 'unshroud' the intake end of the runner. It also has the effect of shortening the runner, moving your power band up just a bit. (100-200 RPM at most.) My plenum was SERIOUSLY blown when I did mine, so, I don't know exactly how much of a 'seat of the pants' change you would feel.... Mine ran so much better.... I didn't worry about it overmuch. Doing the timing chain and gears I think was the most readily apparent change though. It DRASTICALLY improved how the engine ran.
As for the EGR.... I don't really know. Some folks just remove the valve entirely, install a blockoff plate, and call it a day. Most report that the computer never whines about it NOT being there either.... Your mileage may vary.
I think the only SURE way to know, would be to check exhaust gas temps on individual cylinders.... But, even that would be tricky, and likely terribly inaccurate, unless you installed pyrometers by each exhaust port.... WAY to much money as far as I am concerned.
As for the EGR.... I don't really know. Some folks just remove the valve entirely, install a blockoff plate, and call it a day. Most report that the computer never whines about it NOT being there either.... Your mileage may vary.

I think the only SURE way to know, would be to check exhaust gas temps on individual cylinders.... But, even that would be tricky, and likely terribly inaccurate, unless you installed pyrometers by each exhaust port.... WAY to much money as far as I am concerned.
Last edited by HeyYou; Mar 13, 2017 at 10:11 PM.
I just cut down the runners to a convenient spot. It'll be obvious once you look in there. Keep in mind, the center divider on yours also has the passage for EGR... which sticks out to about the middle of the intake. I am not sure what effect cutting that back to the keg wall would have on its distribution among the cylinders, but, I doubt that it would be even... That may cause some problems......










