I just checked the flex plate bolts from my 97 5.9 motors, and they are 7/16-20x 1". When I bolted the flywheel onto my motor I used the ARP bolts. As I recall they were 1-1/2" long... But my recall has been known to be wrong.
I believe the bolt size HeyYou gives above is for the pressure plate, which is what size I remember using.
In case you didn't know you'll need a pilot bearing with bushing, Napa part number BRG FC69907. You'll see why when you look at the end of your crank compared to the donor.

 

Om my gosh thankyou so much. I'll check them arp bolts out. I'll check Omni the length as well. As for the pressure plate bolts im not too concerned...yet.


Just looked at the product you put. The end crank has a hole that large? So I'll need to use that instead of the one that comes in my clutch kit? I don't know if you've had too, but since it's a bushing and a needle cage, is just the needle cage replaceable when it's time for a new clutch in the future, or do I have to replace the whole thing again?

 

If you had an automatic before (sorry, didn't read the first post again) you will need that bushing. Next time you need to do the clutch and bearings you should just be able to change the little cage. It just depends on what comes out and what condition things are in.

I trashed 2 pilot bearings before looking at the old donor motor my NV4500 came from. Of course I couldn't get the old bushing out, so I went and bought a new one. Much easier than tearing the old one apart in my scenario.

 

Ok thanks again. That helped out a lot.

Once I get my flywheel and clutch kit in I'll figure out the size of the pressure plate bolts and keep it updated.

This swap I have won't be happening till the summer, after may probably. I'll keep y'all in the loop once i get there

 

Found some bolts for the pressure plate:
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/15105

Do you think these would work with a lock washer, or should they be more like a cap screw style?

Or these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...iew/make/dodge

 

I think either would work, but, I would be real tempted to go with the grade 8's, and lock washers. Not bolts you want to come loose.

 

I guess the only thing between that and my nuts is a thin aluminum bell housing

I'll call up the dodge dealer again (because the friggin guy never called me back) and see what the part number on the pressure plate bolts are. I know that whatever I use is gettin get a heavy coatin of blue loktite

 

I anted to cover another thing aswell. I do not have a steering colum from this manual truck I bought. In an automatic, the keys only come out in park. How do I get around this as I will be removing the shifter? How does this system work?

 

It's just some interesting mechanicals in the column itself. Pull the shift lever, but, leave the rest in place, and just lock it in what would be the "Park" position, and you should be fine.

 

I'm guessing there's no electronics on the colum itself that would be different than the manual if I'm correct. The only other thing I can think of would be the O/D switch. I'd rather not remove the dash to replace the wiring harness inside the truck, if I reprogram the PCM and remove the pcm, it shouldn't cause a problem? This might be more of a test and try?

Also, the clutch safety switch or whatever you call it, I'd like to have that in place if I can, but as stated above, I'd rather jot switch the harness out of the dash. Is there a way to splice in and connect the switch? Would they be their own pins on the pcm or part of a circuit that does the same thing? I guess what I should ask if it's part if the interior or engine harness?