I got my intake back acknowledged from th machine shop for being cleaned up and extracting a bolt from the thermostat housin, but I was reading up on the kegger mod DIY, and I am unclear on where I need to cut the intake runner so for the 5.9. It says I can cut them all the way down, but before I started I want to make sure where I choukc cut for it. Here's where "I" think would work for the 5.9, but if anyone suggests different, let me know.

 

That's where I cut mine.

I have no clue how much of a difference it made though, as I did a WHOLE BUNCH of other stuff at the same time. (plenum fix, plugs/wires/cap/rotor, air filter, etc.) I didn't do the timing set at that point, but, the engine ran noticeably better.... (once I got the plug wires on right.......) Timing set was still the biggest improvement.

 

Ok that's what I'll plan to do. I am also doing the plenum, plugs and wires, timing set, water pump, valve cover gaskets at the same time too. I'm doing all of it together with the manual swap. Since I'll have the tranny off and the wiring harness out, I'll be pulling the motor to clean it and put my new parts on. It will make it go way easier.

I'll come back with updates once I start cutting my kegger. I'll figure out what I want to do with the egr as well! Thanks.

 

If you are going to have the engine out.... and valve covers off.... wanna do valve seals too? They are cheap, and pretty easy, just tedious.

 

I have the money, and I know I could do them, but I plan on doing roller rockers down the road, so I'm not sure. I'll consider it since I won't have the motor out for another few weeks. What do you recommend to keep the valves up? Rope or air pressure in the cylinder?

 

I used air pressure, worked fine. Rope is good as well, and is in some cases easier.... just depends on what you have on hand.

 

Since you are going to pull the motor, you might want to consider replacing the freeze plugs, too. When removing the block freeze plugs, be sure to clear out any muck around the bottoms of the cylinders. The freeze plugs in the block are 1-5/8" and the 4 freeze plugs in the heads are 1-1/4". I use deep cup brass freeze plugs so I won't have to do that swap ever again.

 

Yes, This. This is a stunningly good idea, and I am truly disappointed it didn't occur to me. AtomicDog hit the nail right on the head. The factory plugs are steel, and I had to replace a couple on my truck, and the ones in the back of the block were starting to seep...... Do yourself a favor, and change them ALL.

 

Trust me I know. Just looking at them plugs in my truck make me shiver. They aren't in the best shape. Good thing I got a set of em already in my parts stockpile! brass ones too!
(Were veering off topic fast )
But anyway, Out of a quick question, you know if I got to pull the ac condenser to pull motor? I know it would make it easier. Just a hassle to evacuate the system and then refill.

 

You can pull the motor straight up and out by removing the hood and leaving the A/C condenser in-place. This is how I pulled my 5.9 motor.