Shows I know very little about this ABS, I figured if you had ABS it would always be 4 wheel ABS. Looked up my build sheet and they are BGK 4-Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes. A person can learn how much they don't know reading this site.

 

I suspect there is still some air in the system, or, you have a hidden leak somewhere.....

 

Hate to update this again, but figured I'd try once more.

List of whats been done:
(by me:
Replaced master
Replaced rear shoes, drums, springs, wheel cylinders

(at shop:
Leaking( I think damaged on removal by me) rear driver side hard line replaced
Replaced master x2
Replaced booster

(by me:
Adjusted rears so they were not dragging(shop did this)
Adjusted brake light switch(shop didn't get it right)
Replaced front passenger bearing/hub assembly
Replaced calipers

3 weeks ago I replaced the adjusters and the rest of the parts on the rears and had a shop confirm it was fully bled.

The condition I have now is basically no front brakes, the pedal is better, close to normal I would say even, but stopping power is nowhere near what it should be. If I am braking and one of the rears runs over a street marker it can get pretty sketchy and it is obvious the fronts are not braking. The rears are easily locked up as well if the pedal is jumped on "hard" enough, doesn't take much effort. It's driveable but its also an accident waiting to happen.

Sorry this is getting long, but once again any suggestions very much appreciated.

 

Brake lite on?

 

When I worked at a Dodge Dealer and got my ASE certification we were taught 4 wheel abs has to be bled a certain way (not like the old days where you went wheel farthest away). I also noticed on the proportioning valve there is a bleeder to. I am fighting a brake problem to just like you have but I have 2 wheel abs. My pedal is form when truck is off but soft when it's running an a have brake fade. Brake light is on in mine, if I find my solution I'll post it up here.

 

I have no abs or brake light on. I did notice I think once after bleeding(awhile back now) that one or both may have been on but as soon as I touched the pedal they went off.

I am also 2 wheel abs, thanks for reading and if you find anything please do post. I read your thread and it sounds similar to my issues, slightly different but close.

 

I never had this much problems with brakes. They are usually pretty simple

 

With RWAL, standard bleeding procedures *should* work...... I sometimes need to shock the air in the system loose though.... have someone pump up the brakes, and hold pressure, crack open the bleeder. Do that several times at each wheel, and see if anything improves. (yep, pretty much the same procedure for centering the proportioning valve, just, do it at every wheel, in order.)

 

Been wondering if mine is the proportion valve, but from what I have researched when they go out they still allow for front brakes to work but not the rears from my understanding, still reading about them. There feels like zero front braking if braking hard enough and the rears run over street marker bumps. If I drive far enough it seems like the rears start to get warm and I have heard some slight "hrrrrmmph" in protest from them when coming to a stop.

If bleeding all four I've always started with the pass rear and worked my way closer to the MC driver front last, in the past I have done front pad and rotor replacement and only bled the fronts with no issues on this truck. When I did the front calipers in April I went through 32oz of brake fluid trying to be sure I got a good bleed on the fronts.

The system was pretty dirty and has me wondering if the valve is maybe clogged/stuck.

 

Proportioning valve is also a kind of *safety* switch. It will block flow to the part of the brakes it thinks is blown, so, I can bias front or rear. Just depends on phase of the moon. It does sound like the valve is blocking the fronts though....