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Shaking while braking

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  #1  
Old 09-19-2017, 10:53 PM
adukart
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Default Shaking while braking

This goes out to all the lifted guys. So my truck is a 1999 2500 v10, 4wd with a 4.5 skyjacker soft ride lift and 35s. Under light braking it will shake. At first when I bough it like 4 months it was absolutely horrible, would shake everything from the cup holders. Fast forward in the last couple weeks I have done the steering stabilizer, tie rod, drag link, track bar, ball joints, and sway bar end links. All of those were moog parts except the steering stabilizer which was a skyjacker. The brakes look very fresh in the front and the hubs were tight as well as the ujoints. Now while substantially better under light braking it can still shake, seems to initiate by bumps in the road. However if I brake hard there is no shaking. I'm stumped at this point. Additional info it has a dual shock kit up front and the they are both rusted and shot.
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 09:57 AM
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How are the tires? I have had belt separation cause some really interesting driveability issues.
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 03:52 PM
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The front tires could well be the problem, I would also suggest checking the front rotors for any warping.
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 06:36 PM
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Front tires are brand new, less than 300 miles. Did it with the old tires as well. I have to locate a press to get the rotors off. Idk if it because its a canadian truck originally or not but it has the stupid style where the studs are press through the hub an rotor to hold the rotor to the hub.
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:16 PM
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Yeah, not the best design on the rotors, it really annoys me they did it that way.

Anyone around have an on-the-car brake lathe?

I usually just knock the studs out with a block of wood, and a big hammer. Draw them back in with a nut, and a couple washers, with the impact wrench.....
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:40 PM
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You could check the runout with a dial indicator prior to removal. Having a set of 35s could overheat the rotors and cause a warp. If you do wind up replacing the rotors, make sure you do not get the cheaper Chinese type. If they are still the oem rotors possibly recutting them would do the trick. Also make sure the rear brake shoes are not spiderwebbed from excessive heat.
 
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:40 PM
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When I got the truck it had 38s and whoever installed the lift never addressed the rear load proportioning valve and let the lever hang, I have since tied it up for maximum rear pressure. So albeit the brakes look new up front they did all the braking when I got the truck.............

So I think the consensus from you all is that even though the front end helped it, get some quality rotors on it since thats the last thing left. Also looking at doing the GM 1ton brake cylinders to help this, what is your thoughts?
 
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