Ok I have looked and used all the info I can find on this big screw up made. I have a 98 RAM with a v10 in it. Long story short the battery terminals got connected backwards. The key was turned over and the starter turned like normally (although prob turning backwards). I then caught a smell like the ballast burning out in a fluorescent light. Jumped out and noticed what was going on and immediately removed the leads off the battery. Replaced battery and connected leads correctly and luckily the truck started up fine. I had to replace the fuse to the radio and the fusible link going to the alternator (140 amp) at the engine bay fuse box. Here are the problems that are still happening and would appreciate any input on where to start trouble shooting for the issues mentioned or what to do from here. Thanks Dale

• AC Compressor fuse in the engine bay keeps popping immediately when you turn the AC on
• All gauges just jumpy they'll go to 0 and sit there a sec then jump up to wherever (randomly) and settle back to zero then repeat
• The aftermarket remote start will still lock and unlock the door like normal but when you hit the key to start it the lights come on and you hear the fuel pump engage just like its working like before then nothing beyond that. 10/15 seconds or so later it will repeat that process like its starting over which is what the system is supposed to do for 3 cycles in the event of the vehicle failing to start.

As far as I can tell these are the only issues left to sort out and I will add the smell I mentioned before (best I could tell) was coming from under/behind the steering wheel.

 

What year is your truck? What engine?

 

98 v10

 

You can download the 98 service manual from here. Wiring diagrams are in section 8W. have a look at the a/c circuit that is blowing, then simply follow the wires, and look for the short. Knowing how these things usually go, don't be surprised that some of the wires disappear into the nooks and crannies of the intake manifold, where they are truly fun to get to.....

 

Ok I downloaded it and can trace the wires from the compressor but I am really thinking it and the gauges are coming with the same problem source so does anyone have ideas of what could be causing the gauge issue?

 

Gauges are probably a ground issue. Check for loose connections..... Should be diagrams for the cluster in there as well.

 

I agree with you totally I honestly think all the issues point to a grounding problem but what's the recommendation to trace it to where? What could have burned up in the cab bc my guess is that's our gremlin.

 

Figure out where the grounds are. (that's in the FSM as well) and have a look. Also, may want to look at the connectors on the back of the cluster. (which involves removing it......)

 

You could try adding your own temporary grounds with some wire and alligator clips for testing. Grounding directly to the battery negative is the best way to go. Some of those steel factory grounds will not work nearly as good as copper wire as copper is a much better conductor.

 

Just an update I pulled the gauge cluster and everything seemed to be plugged in and OK. I unplugged the AC compressor and put the fuse in and it didn't blow so I plugged it back up and didn't blow then either and seems to be functioning normal now. So I am still stuck with the gauges acting loopy and the remote start not working. All grounds seem to be in good shape or at least the ones I could find. I am really thinking the root of this problem is whatever burned up under the dash. I looked while cluster was out and didn't see any burnt wires and pulled the ctm module and cracked it open but didn't see anything that looked burnt or blown. So still chasing it any more input?