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2001 Ram 3.9L V6 replaced clutch, now won’t start!!

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Old 12-09-2017, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit
FYI the timing is controlled by the computer (PCM) and not adjustable. The cam sensor in the distributor controls fuel sync ( timing of the fuel injectors. Turning the distributor changes the fuel sync. You need a fairly high end scanner to read the fuel sync so it can be set properly.

You may want to reset the PCM. I can't remember if you just unhook the battery for awhile or unhook the positive cable and hold it against the frame for 30 seconds while leaving the ground connected. Hopefully one of the others remembers. Sometimes it won't reconize the new sensors until it gets reset.
Thanks! We’ll try the disconnect for now and see if that helps.. this thing has my mind boggled. When we first try to start it it really tries to run... then just loses interest lol. We’ve thought it was gonna fire so many times. Fingers crossed for the reset!
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit
Hey You is much better with the codes and electronics on these engines. Hopefully he can steer you in the right direction. Maybe check your fuses and relays. Check for fuel pressure? Can you hear the pump run?
We’ll start checking relays.. checked fuses ok. And disconnected the battery before any work was done but you know how it goes. And yes, you can hear the fuel pump engaging..
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:23 PM
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The six has a unique 'tone ring', It has staggered holes, that the crank sensor reads. Two holes together, then one, then two... etc. I think if it was reading one hole, and it expected two.... that might make things interesting, but, as you are getting spark..... I suspect the problem is elsewhere.

Two things I would do... First, get a fuel pressure gauge, and make sure you have pressure. Second, get a noid light, and make sure you are getting injector pulse. One of the two is likely missing. Not sure how effective just pouring gas into the intake will be.... the runners in that manifold are LONG...... and, depending on the brand, your brake cleaner may not burn at all in any event.
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
The six has a unique 'tone ring', It has staggered holes, that the crank sensor reads. Two holes together, then one, then two... etc. I think if it was reading one hole, and it expected two.... that might make things interesting, but, as you are getting spark..... I suspect the problem is elsewhere.

Two things I would do... First, get a fuel pressure gauge, and make sure you have pressure. Second, get a noid light, and make sure you are getting injector pulse. One of the two is likely missing. Not sure how effective just pouring gas into the intake will be.... the runners in that manifold are LONG...... and, depending on the brand, your brake cleaner may not burn at all in any event.
Thanks for these points! Gave me some serious new avenues to look down! I’ll update further!
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 10:59 PM
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:16 PM
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Try the coil. When bad you'll get sorry but not enough to start the engine if you measure from the post to the one with it should be between 12,000-15,000 ohms. Anything below it's bad.
 
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Old 12-09-2017, 11:38 PM
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Keep in mind this is from my 95 service manual. What brand crank sensor was used? I have no faith in BWD.
 
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit;336978
[img
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgeforum.com-vbulletin/1120x2000/80-img_20171209_222823229_top_beca636750f2ecb24bfeec9 9437d750d4382c552.jpg[/img]
Keep in mind this is from my 95 service manual. What brand crank sensor was used? I have no faith in BWD.
We got the Dorman.. of those available it seemed better made. This thing is really trying to fire.. still doing some testing. Relays are good. Thanks y’all for the input!
 
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Old 12-11-2017, 02:24 PM
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Not sure if Dorman is one members were having problems with. You might want to buy one from the dealership and try it. See if parts store has noid lights you can rent/ borrow to test for pulse for fuel injectors. I'm guessing if you have spark that the cam sensor is the problem. In post #5, Hey You gave a link to download a factory service manual. It has testing procedures for the sensors.
 
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit
Not sure if Dorman is one members were having problems with. You might want to buy one from the dealership and try it. See if parts store has noid lights you can rent/ borrow to test for pulse for fuel injectors. I'm guessing if you have spark that the cam sensor is the problem. In post #5, Hey You gave a link to download a factory service manual. It has testing procedures for the sensors.
So... where to begin on this lol. We took out the Dorman crank sensor and got one from the dealership, and you can tell it’s quality. We pulled the trans back out, which was not a bad thing to do even though the flywheel was in right, there really is only one way it can go.. but got it resurfaced this time (which we should’ve done the first time) but we love doing stuff twice<sarcasm>. And there was a clip that was broken anyways so the re-pulling of the trans yielded some good things. Got it put back together, put on the good crank sensor, and........ squat. Still won’t start. Still gets great spark. Still hear the fuel pump kicking on.. turned all to top dead center, and it’s just.. idk. Something is amiss.. saying thanks to all for the tips and advice. Got some more head scratching to do!
 


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