Ok so i have had my truck (1999 ram 1500 5.2 4x4 and was loving it)since novemberish of last year. First mistake probably buying from a buy-here-pay-here. Check engine light has come on several different times. Each for different reasons until now. I made careful to make sure it was in time and all new wires and plugs followed with cap and rotor button. Still having cylinder misfire in 5 and 7. Truck has all new intake, crankshaft, A/T park neutral switch and oil pump.

Current codes are
P0305
P0505
P0123
P0300
P1899
P1294
P1391
P0307

Now i have checked my idle air. 2 sensors. 1 i unplugged and made no change the second i unplugged the idle calmed back down. Before unplugging it would idle at 1500RPM and up. Once pulled went down to 900 to 1000 RPM.

Any thoughts on what i could possibly do? Not trying to kill myself with extra mechanic work but not trying to kill the bank with sending her to the shop either as i have a 10 mo daughter and another car to keep up as well. Anything helpful and possibly dumbed down would be awesome.( not clueless but not exactly an all out mech. Just doing enough to get by and pass inspection)

 

305, 307 and 300 are misfire codes. (cylinder 5, 7, and random cylinder misfire)
505 is IAC.

5 and 7 are next to each other both physically, and in the firing order...... I would be tempted to swap those injectors with the ones from cylinders 1 and 3, just to see if anything changed. (and eliminate fueling as the culprit.)

With the ignition On, (engine doesn't need to be running) you should see 12 volts on two of the pins for the IAC. If you don't have that, you need to check the wiring, if the wiring is good, PCM is toast, and nothing else really matters.

 

ok i can do the swap to check sometime tomorrow. 3rd shift puts me in a bind for mech work. As far as ruling out the fuel, is there an alternative of thats fails to fix said issue

 

If swapping the injectors doesn't solve the miss on 5 and 7, (actually, move the miss to 1 and 3......) then, it's not a fuel problem. At that point, it's time for a compression test.

 

Bad ignition coil will give you random misfires and even pick on certain cylinders. A quick check is to spray a mist of water down on it while its running and see if you get spark jumping. If you don't see any sparking pull it off and test the resistance on it.

 

Ok havent had time to do any checks but a co worker looked at her om break and found an exhaust leak coming right off the manifold. Could it be the leak given so close to the cylinders be an underlying cause possibly as the compression issue?

 

Ok havent had time to do any checks but a co worker looked at her om break and found an exhaust leak coming right off the manifold. Could it be the leak given so close to the cylinders be an underlying cause possibly as the compression issue? Also co worker is bringing some lucas treatment to run through fuel lines and clean up a bit. Im a bit skeptical about it as i have never used lucas or seafoam on any of my vehicles. Safe or not?

 

Exhaust leaks are a separate issue. Fixing them IS a good idea...... Just replacing the gaskets should be all you need there.

Lots folks around here use SeaFoam..... In the gas tank, down the vacuum line for the brake booster, etc. Don't think I'd put any in the oil though......

 

Took it to local mech shop earlier today. Guy hooked er up and ran the test. Only thifng showing now is the TPS. I figure maybe change it and see how it goes. It also showed up a stored code that hasnt always shown up. Sort of like an on and off hit n miss code. Its for torque convertor clutch sensor. Not sure to worry or not since its a random times code.

 

See below for a link to a page with troubleshooting & expected readings for testing throttle body sensors. All you should need is a basic electrical voltmeter.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...y-sensors.html
I haven't used SeaFoam much myself but I have used the Berryman's B12 ChemTool quite a lot, absolutely love the stuff. It comes in spray and pour-in cans; used to be on the label to add it to crankcase on a cold engine, run 15 minutes and then change oil. I've done this for years and not had an issue; dirty filter coming off sure was heavy with crap though. I put about 290000 miles on a Cherokee 4.0, used this process just about every time I changed the oil. It was still going strong at 307011 miles when the body fell apart around it. I kept the engine and it's now powering my oldest son's '96 Cherokee.
Straight ChemTool applied directly to and left on rubber parts will cause them to swell though, so be careful with bowl rings and needle tips when doing carb work. Gotta use the "spray & wipe" method, and generally only 1 application.