1997 4WD 5.9/5.9 Swap
1997 4WD 5.9/5.9 Swap
Hey, I've only done the plenum repair on this engine, and it ended up just being rod knock...So I'm buying a new motor this weekend and wanted to know how difficult swapping this in would be? Its basically removing the old and stuffing the new one in, the new motor has everything with it and runs. What all would I need? I'm not experienced at all, don't have a lot of tools lol, and am working out of a garage at my apartment complex. Any advise would be helpful, I heard that swapping this motor with 4x4 is hard? I just wanna know what I'm getting into really. Thanks, Jake
First post by the way! Second Ram, both the same but this one is a Single cab short bed.
First post by the way! Second Ram, both the same but this one is a Single cab short bed.
Last edited by Jaw91097; Mar 24, 2018 at 12:43 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,869
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From: Central VA
Nothing really wrong with that motor - you do not need to swap it, unless you really want to. As was mentioned, you have a pretty good exhaust leak and possibly a lifter ticking. Also, replace the belt and tensioner pulley to get rid of that chirping sound.
Thank you for all the responses, I'll go get some gaskets tomorrow, and that belt. I'll let you know how it goes. If just the manifold gaskets and those other gaskets for the pipes don't bring any good luck then I'll just buy headers. Thanks again! Hopefully saved me a lot of money and time.
Sooooo, I got some bolts out.. broke one clean off the manifold. Sorry I got the two "headers" and "manifold" mixed up, these are stock manifolds and bolts. I bought a Felpro gasket but am I able to use that with the stock manifolds if those aren't busted?
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Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 488
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From: Texas
Usually, the exhaust manifolds don't warp or break, they're pretty thick. If the face of the manifold where it mates to the head or the exhaust pipe is still solid and the body isn't rusted away to paper thin iron, then by all means reuse them.
Also, if the studs break at the manifold and not the actual head, how can I remove those? Is it still possible to take the manifold off and clean it with a stuck stud?
Is it okay to start the motor without manifolds or headers on it?
I know I’m a pain in the ***, sorry for all the questions, but this is my last one....I’ve got six BRAND NEW 12mm sockets stuck with a bolt or stud inside, I’ve tried hammering it out and all that but nothings working...how can I prevent that from happening or get those out?
I don’t have much help on this so I’m just figuring **** out as I go honestly, so everything is helpful, and 🙏🏻 thank you.
Jake
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,480
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From: Clayton MI
If the bolts break, you can still pull the manifold off. Then just clean them good with a wire brush, hit 'em with some chems, and take them out with vice grips. (or, if you have a welder, weld a nut onto the stud.)
Use the gaskets. You have them.
I would not run the engine without manifolds. Tends to burn exhaust valves.
For bolts stuck in sockets, I usually just bounce them off the concrete a couple times, and they come out. Or stick a punch up thru them, and bounce 'em on the floor. Worst case, screw the bolt back into the hole, so the socket comes loose, then take 'em out again.
Use the gaskets. You have them.
I would not run the engine without manifolds. Tends to burn exhaust valves.
For bolts stuck in sockets, I usually just bounce them off the concrete a couple times, and they come out. Or stick a punch up thru them, and bounce 'em on the floor. Worst case, screw the bolt back into the hole, so the socket comes loose, then take 'em out again.