I'm trying to help ya narrow it down but it's alot. BTW, its michael, AEL. Does the clickity click come from the starter? If so that indicates the starter trying to start but not enough juice. Plus no power windows and locks would also explain that. Not a coil issue. Coil is when the truck runs perfectly fine and when it's warmed up or hot will die. Maybe chug with weak spark.
What gaurds are you referring to? the spark plug heat shields?
and the 02 sensor would explain bad chugging and irradic idle, it trys compensating for the loss of no 02 sensor reading and will not have correct air fuel ratio. Since it'll try to read off other sensors, ect, map, tps, iac..
Did you ever get that 02 out?

 

I did edit your name, my apologies, I have horrid dyslexia.

Yes, those spark plug heat shields, I want them gone! lol

I never did get that o2 sensor out. And also, because the truck does run and drive some times, I'm not sure that would help diagnose properly at this point. I don't know what to do. ugh.
Should I buy a new o2 sensor? And alternator, and coil, and belt...then just bring back the parts that weren't needed?

 

All good, no worries

Those shields will pull off the wire when you get the wire off the plug. Or should.

And no, I would buy what your truck is telling you to be broke/not working. Then go from there. It's hard to diagnose something with multiple problems, narrow it down by eliminating ones you know and it'll save you time and money.

 

What engine are we talking? The plugs are super easy on the V8s but I've never tried a V10. Just hand tools required, even with the heat shields.

Have you removed the belt and check all the pulleys for everything? The tensioner should be super stiff spring and require a large ratchet to loosen.

Whatever happened with the o2?

If it runs better after the battery is disconnected, that sounds like pcm issues. It will run on 'base' parameters until 30 some miles or a few key on/offs. I know this because my Deathflash kicks in after this period. It's a whole new truck until then.

 

I was gunna also say pcm/asd relay the way everything acts up. But I usually try to save that for last as thats not what everyone wants to hear. Specially with problem codes insisting a problem. but I've never had an experience with death flash so I have no input. Thank God . 🤞

 

ramman, wouldn't that happen every time you'd start the truck? My theory, of why I ask, is that when the trucks cold and is started then during warm up (open loop) the base parameters set in the computer run it until the 02 sensors take over (closed loop). Meaning it'll run on the Pre set parameters built in the pcm, but for some reason all of a sudden goes hay wire?! Once again though, no expirience with it.

 

Man, I'm too slow typing again. Sorry for the repeated questions.

You should really get that sensor out. That's still the first thing that can cause issues. Just take it to a muffler shop and they'll have it out in no time. Then start it and see what happens. If you've never replaced it, start with a new NTK sensor (oem) and eliminate that. It's basically a wear item. I'm on my third set.

I'm not sure how the pcm does what it does. HeyYou can speak better to that.

But in my experience, with my re-flash (deathflash), when the battery is disconnected, all the stored data and driving habits are erased. Thus it runs a completely base operation (pre flash) until it figures out how I drive. Additionally, then the deathflash kicks in after a set amount of miles or key turns. But it's always learning and 'memorizes' parameters after so many miles. When I'm on a road trip, it acts different since it's been cruising at a certain RPM for many miles. It always revs quicker and acts like it wants to cruise more than stop and go. When I'm back to daily driving, it seems to forget the hwy and act differently again. When I come home from a long trip and turn off the freeway, it seems to have more power like it wants to get up to speed again. I don't remember where I've read this but I seem to recall that the pcm is always adjusting and changing based on several indicators (temp, speed, load, etc.), regardless of the flash. So in my case, it has a stock setting when the battery is reconnected, then the flash kicks in, then it adjusts based on my driving habits. Again, Heyyou should chime in here.

 

When you reset the computer by depriving it of power for a bit, it reverts back to its base programming, which for folks with the 'death flash' IS the death flash. As you drive, the PCM will learn both engine behavior, and your driving habits, and will adjust from the base parameters according to what it's sensors tell it. (truly unfortunate dodge didn't bother to put knock sensors on these engines.) On the newer trucks (98 and up) torque management is also significantly more pronounced...... (and deprives you of even more power the engine is capable of putting out.)

So, when in open loop, the PCM goes by it's base programming, modified by what it has learned. If it hasn't learned anything yet, you get the base programming. That's it. (death flash......) PCM starts paying attention to the O2 sensor fairly quickly though, roughly two minutes from startup, even if the engine is stone cold. (so, if it runs ok for a couple minutes, and then starts running like crap, O2 sensor is the FIRST place to look. )

That is why a tuner on the 98 and up trucks has a pretty significant impact on performance. Still nice on the 96-97 trucks, but, not quite as profound a difference.

If you suspect a bad O2 sensor is contributing to your issues, just unplug it, and see if the truck runs any better.... (yeah, it'll set a code......)

Going by some of your symptoms, gauges going nuts, etc.... That sounds a lot like a bad connection somewhere significant, either at the battery, the PDC, the alternator, or a combination of any/all of them (and likely other places as well). That will also thoroughly confuse the PCM.......

 

So if "base" programming is the deathflash, why does my truck run like a raped ape after disconnecting the battery? I don't get the deathflash until several miles and days are under it.

OP: how's the ground connection? Check batter, pcm, fuse panel, etc.

 

Because the deathflash isn't quite as bad as it's made out to be...... after a reset, the truck hasn't learned how you drive yet. If performance gets worse over time, I would suspect a failing sensor somewhere.