(Website bookmarked. TY!)





This is the battery that I bought in the fall of 2016, right when I discovered the 2 major battery drains, and had no choice about it.. I got this one specifically for the Dodge, however, it ended up living in the house mostly, until just very recently. Because, I also had to purchase another battery for my other truck, that is used only as a tractor at home. The intention was to have the little battery, that would be used only once every couple of months, to live in the house. ( I am guessing, I think it is only 550 CCA) I don't remember why, but for some reason, the little battery ended up in the Dodge, and since it just kept working, even outside in the Dodge all last winter, that is where it stayed.

I bought the Dodge in the spring of 2016. I am at minimum, the 3rd owner. Someone did indeed put in an aftermarket stereo in the truck, and it has been suggested that may be why I have an electrical ghost. I don't think additional speakers were installed, but not positive. As for lights, it does have a 2 light system for low/high beams, plus the fog lights. I don't know if fog lights come standard? I have burnt out bulbs a few times, while hooking the battery back up. It has to be done FAST to prevent this kind of thing.

I discovered the battery drain due to the bed light staying on, when the truck is turned completely off. This was just a couple months after I bought the truck. I traced that light to the I.O.D. fuse. I pulled the fuse out, and wrongly assumed, problem solved. lol
Went to start the truck a couple days later, and once again, battery completely dead. :-( I still have no clue where that 2nd battery drain is. At the time, I had a dislocated knee, plus horrid internet connection. So really could not do much about it.

I am now finally able to walk again, AND have internet at home. I do have the service manual downloaded, but still need to look at it. Also, later today, I do have a guy coming over with a volt meter. Yay! He works as a full time mechanic, so fingers crossed, he is a GOOD mechanic. lol. For today, we plan to see if the alternator is working at all, and go from there.

Please, any suggestions of exactly where else to look, etc. are greatly appreciated!! Thanks a ton guys.

PS: At this moment, I have both batteries fully charged from my charger in the house.

OH! Just remembered...The tranny cooler leaks, so obviously when the truck is running, the fan blows tranny fluid all over everything! Could the tranny fluid that is covering the alternator cause issues?

 

Trans fluid is non-conductive.

Disconnect the positive battery terminal, put your meter on Amps scale, see what ya get. Start pulling fuses, one at a time, until it changes. There is your draw. Keep in mind, the PCM ALWAYS has a small draw..... as does the radio.

 

It is now confirmed: Bad alternator.
I suppose it could be worse, by a lot! Like the other guy replacing every single computer component. I'm so relieved I never was able to get that far, when my engine sounded like it was running on only 5 cylinders. Of course, I still have no clue why it ever did that, and then, how it fixed itself! LoL I'm just glad it did.

Once I get the alternator replaced, I'll see if I can find that other battery drain.

 

I have done no repairs yet, in large part due to the reprisal of winter. However, I did drive the truck into town last week, having 3 fully charged batteries on board, expecting that I would need to swap at least one in, to make the round trip. (Never did need to)

After I posted the diagnosis of a bad alternator, I started to have doubts about that conclusion. And, then during the drive into town, I was quickly reminded, the Alt Gauge does flatline once the truck hits 30 to 45 mph. And that problem actually began several months ago. The truck drove fine, by just ignoring the gauge.
I had guessed it was just a faulty gauge, due to my very first post here, a couple years back, someone suggested my instrument cluster may need replacing. And it might, I still do not know.

I did buy my own volt meter now. And was able to determine with certainty, the one battery did indeed stay fully charged for the 30 some miles round trip, with multiple engine starts during errands.

Questions for today, since google is not helping. I noticed that my serpentine belt is not as tight as it should be. It is in good condition, other than being loose. I believe it is only 2 to 3 years old. But, I can push it in 2 inches, easily. I am considering just buying a new one, or, is there a spray to help it grip better? It gets covered in tranny fluid, would that make it not grip good enough? And, how do I determine if the tensioner is the problem? That also moves in easily. Is it supposed to?

 

Tensioner should not move easily.

 

That sounds like an alternator problem. If the gauge works at anytime properly I wouldn't see why 30-45 mph would make your cluster different. Ill post a pic of diagnosing stretched belt. Tensioner mark should be almost ligned up with the stationary arrow on tensioner.

 

I agree buddy

 

Welp, now today, I was not able to get that tensioner to budge at all. But as usual, I was in a hurry, so I need to check again tomorrow. Maybe I'll be stronger tomorrow. lol
According to the diagram Micheal posted, I do think a new belt might be in order, but will have to post a pic for you guys to tell me for sure.

And, I drove the truck a total of 6 miles. Idle was slightly "off" as soon as I started the truck. I can't describe it accurately, but I can always tell right away, when there will be problems ahead. And sure enough, it died going down the highway again. Battery reads 12.25 volts. Why would it die on a fully charged battery only some of the time?

The parts store wants me to buy a coil, and/or a PCM. I am leaning more towards some computer component, being that it seems like having the battery disconnected for long periods of time, can either break the engine, but also sometimes fixes it. What do you think?

 

Could be Long enough to also let the coil cool down. Try a tune up/ with a new coil. Sounds like the battery is charging/ holding charge. So no problem there.
Only real way to tell is when it happens to die, pull the coil wire (distributor side) and hold it a inch or two away from any type of ground (engine, body panel...) And watch for spark. Gotta have someone else with ya cranking the truck. Be careful and wear gloves as you don't want to be shocked by it. If you have access to a junkyard try that first as there $5, or free if you have deep pockets haha 😉

You don't have any codes do you? And I only recommend a tune up (plugs, wires, cap and rotor) cause it sounds like it's chugging before it actually looses spark.

 

When the truck dies in Park: First the engine idle will go wildly erratic. Really high to really low, and will do that a number of times, until finally it will just die at the low idle. The first couple of times it did that this winter, I was outside of the truck, and the truck had done that right when I bought it, but never died. So, I did not act urgently this winter, to go see what was happening.

When the engine dies while driving: The RPMs will be "off" It just does not sound "normal". But what is more prevalent is the lack of power, to like the windows, door locks etc. And then, the instrument panel will go absolutely nuts. Sometimes every single light and gage goes on full bore, then sometimes all off, but it is not really consistent, aside from just going absolutely bonkers.

Either way, if in Park, or in Drive...the time of going bonkers to death can be anywhere from 30 seconds to 5 minutes. And when trying to start again after this, it just does the Click, clickity, click...that I'm sure everyone here has heard before.

I am going to attempt making it to the parts store today. Does Autozone have any tool that can check the coil? Anything else I should have them help to diagnose?
What should I buy?

The only code I've been able to ever get is the o2 sensor.

Thank you! I'm really grateful you are helping me out here Michael.
And certainly welcome anyone else to chime in again too. :-)

ETA: I changed the plugs, wires and cap, rotor 2 summers ago, right when I bought it. This is the first vehicle I have ever met, that I could not do the plugs myself. That ended up costing me $300 for the shop to change the 5 plugs my tools could not reach, because of those stupid guards. Ugh!!
I have been searching for someone to rip them off for me, because I know I am not capable. And have had no luck yet. No way, am I paying $300 for new plugs again. Unless, they will take those guards off too. THAT I would pay for.