Hey guys, I'm smack dab in the middle of replacing my brake drums and shoes and hardware. The kit I got from napa is this one https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/UBP2248?interchange=1 it's just like the kit that o reillys offers etc. My question is, the 4 hold down springs are different in every kit I looked at. 2 of the springs are shorter and 2 are longer. I assume one short and 1 longer one on each side of the truck. But does the shorter one go on the front shoe or the back shoes? The way they came off was the longer hold downs were on the driver side and the short ones were on the passenger side. There's gotta be a reason why there's 2 different lengths. Would like to know before I proceed any further!

 

the shorter ones goes on the side that has more 'stuff' on it. Is the ebrake lever on the outboard side?

 

Not familiar with the D60 brakes but on my 91/4 rear I believe it was one short and one long per side. Like maybe short on front shoe and long on rear. I think one shoe just sits out further hence the shorter spring and vice versa. And they had no relation to how the ebrake attached. It's been over a year and I did them one side at a time so it wouldn't confuse me.

Do a quick search on youtube I found lots of helpful videos.

 

It's got a lever type of thing on both side of the shoe, the outboard one goes down to the adjusting wheel but is in correlation with the e brake mechanism. I ended up putting the springs in the way you stated. One side had the lever that went to the adjusting wheel, so it made sense that the shorter spring go there, and the longer on the other shoe.

BUT, got it all together, only to realize my wheel cylinder is seized up on the driver side. It'll push the rods out, but it won't retract them all the way, maybe halfway. There's no squeezing them together no matter how much I tried. The top of the shoes where they contact that "pin" above the wheel cylinder, I can't get them to seat onto the pin. So when I go to put my new drums on, they drag right off the bat. SO i get to tear it all apart again to replace the cylinders. If you've been paying attention to my "driving vibration" thread, I'm wondering if this wheel cylinder isn't the root cause of getting the drums warped and causing my vibration.

Good time to update to the chevy one ton cylinders now.

I've got the 9 1/4 too. I put them on like hey you said, so we'll see how it goes. But have to tear it all apart again to replace the wheel cylinders now.

 

To bleed the brakes, you start from the furthest away bleeder and work towards the closest? So right rear, left rear, right front, left front? Can I get by just bleeding the rears since I won't be cracking the front brakes open?

 

Yes and yes.

What? You have the LD 2500? Rare bird. So 9-1/4 in rear and Dana 44 up front???

 

Yes sir 9 1/4 rear and Dana 44 up front. 7500 GVW. Is this a good rare, or bad rare? I've always hated the corporate axle because there's no limited slip.

 

Probably bad rare since it's essentially a 1500 with bigger springs and 2500 badges. Is it eight lug? I believe it was marketed to fleets and companies but was discontinued in 96 if memory serves. Sort of a tweener like Chevy's 1500HD from early 2000s.

Why do you think there's no limited slip? I have one factory made. 9.25 3.55 LSD and it's all original at 233k.

 

The more I slept on it, I may just get the dodge wheel cylinders. Having a diesel 3rd gen, I don't tow anything heavy with this truck anymore so the extra braking power isn't necessary. The chevy ones might just wear the shoes and drum out faster

 

It's a 1 tire frier in slick stuff. It is an 8 lug. I can't remember what gearing is in it I'm thinking 3.75?