01 1500 Front End
Professional
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: AZ
either a muffler shop (if they have the right size tubing dies). or if there is one near you, a local offroad shop would be best.
I think you can use 1 3/8" x .188 wall tubing for the tie rod and drag link. By using this size tubing you can just drill /tap the ends for the rod ends instead of buying tubing adapters. You will give up some strength over 1.5"x.250 but should save some money not buying the tubing adapters. Just an idea.
I think you can use 1 3/8" x .188 wall tubing for the tie rod and drag link. By using this size tubing you can just drill /tap the ends for the rod ends instead of buying tubing adapters. You will give up some strength over 1.5"x.250 but should save some money not buying the tubing adapters. Just an idea.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
either a muffler shop (if they have the right size tubing dies). or if there is one near you, a local offroad shop would be best.
I think you can use 1 3/8" x .188 wall tubing for the tie rod and drag link. By using this size tubing you can just drill /tap the ends for the rod ends instead of buying tubing adapters. You will give up some strength over 1.5"x.250 but should save some money not buying the tubing adapters. Just an idea.
I think you can use 1 3/8" x .188 wall tubing for the tie rod and drag link. By using this size tubing you can just drill /tap the ends for the rod ends instead of buying tubing adapters. You will give up some strength over 1.5"x.250 but should save some money not buying the tubing adapters. Just an idea.
That'll bend the tubing for ya.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: AZ
depending on which axles you get, if the front axle has the earlier style "cobra" sway bar mounts or the later style mount, you MIGHT be able to get away with not bending the draglink .
Run 1 3/8" tubing and build a 'T' steering (like i originally did) where the drag link connects to the tie rod. By using the small diameter tubing you can use regular rod ends and keep the tie rod straight and on the same plane as the knuckles. This will eliminate any tie rod flop and will keep you from having to bend the drag link, possibly.
Run 1 3/8" tubing and build a 'T' steering (like i originally did) where the drag link connects to the tie rod. By using the small diameter tubing you can use regular rod ends and keep the tie rod straight and on the same plane as the knuckles. This will eliminate any tie rod flop and will keep you from having to bend the drag link, possibly.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
depending on which axles you get, if the front axle has the earlier style "cobra" sway bar mounts or the later style mount, you MIGHT be able to get away with not bending the draglink .
Run 1 3/8" tubing and build a 'T' steering (like i originally did) where the drag link connects to the tie rod. By using the small diameter tubing you can use regular rod ends and keep the tie rod straight and on the same plane as the knuckles. This will eliminate any tie rod flop and will keep you from having to bend the drag link, possibly.
Run 1 3/8" tubing and build a 'T' steering (like i originally did) where the drag link connects to the tie rod. By using the small diameter tubing you can use regular rod ends and keep the tie rod straight and on the same plane as the knuckles. This will eliminate any tie rod flop and will keep you from having to bend the drag link, possibly.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
I will! I was hoping to do a write up of my 3rd gen center seat install, 3rd gen center console install, and my 4th gen center console install but didn't take enough pics.