01 1500 Front End
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
I wouldn't know not a wiz at steering. Fine by me 😂 the search feature doesn't work on mobile at least in mine it don't. Plus I like opinions man lol. I am a Mopar wizard and love them.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,566
Likes: 4,232
From: Clayton MI
Big money for that steering setup..... but, it certainly has it's advantages. My problem with it is the difference in length of the drag link, and the track bar. As the suspension travels, that IS going to change steering angle.
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
I think that's the kit for DOR and crossover steering I still don't understand the advantages of it
Champion
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 3,103
Likes: 109
From:
Durability, super flexing ability, separate drag link mount, replaceable heim joints, solid steel tubing, etc. Pick up any off-road rag and all the builds have it. You can see the drag link is mounted above the tie rods (which mount directly from one tire to the other side) which allows for precise and durable steering, especially with larger tires and when rock climbing.
Heims on road are a different story. Once they wear they get bad quick and are expensive to replace. Not to mention the issue heyyou mentioned. Just ask yourself, "Am I building a rock crawler or daily driver?" The answer determines crossover worth.
Heims on road are a different story. Once they wear they get bad quick and are expensive to replace. Not to mention the issue heyyou mentioned. Just ask yourself, "Am I building a rock crawler or daily driver?" The answer determines crossover worth.
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Durability, super flexing ability, separate drag link mount, replaceable heim joints, solid steel tubing, etc. Pick up any off-road rag and all the builds have it. You can see the drag link is mounted above the tie rods (which mount directly from one tire to the other side) which allows for precise and durable steering, especially with larger tires and when rock climbing.
Heims on road are a different story. Once they wear they get bad quick and are expensive to replace. Not to mention the issue heyyou mentioned. Just ask yourself, "Am I building a rock crawler or daily driver?" The answer determines crossover worth.
Heims on road are a different story. Once they wear they get bad quick and are expensive to replace. Not to mention the issue heyyou mentioned. Just ask yourself, "Am I building a rock crawler or daily driver?" The answer determines crossover worth.
Professional
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: AZ
The above crossover steering i built myself. A good eye will see the bung (hole) on the passenger side of the tierod.When i first built this setup i designed it as a "T" style steering where the drag link connects to the tierod. The benefit of this is almost exact same length drag link and tracbar. Heyyou mentioned this above. However, the downside is/was the tie rod wants to rotate up/down when turning. This causes a very slight dead spot or play in the steering wheel.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
The above crossover steering i built myself. A good eye will see the bung (hole) on the passenger side of the tierod.When i first built this setup i designed it as a "T" style steering where the drag link connects to the tierod. The benefit of this is almost exact same length drag link and tracbar. Heyyou mentioned this above. However, the downside is/was the tie rod wants to rotate up/down when turning. This causes a very slight dead spot or play in the steering wheel.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.
I built 3 vehicles that went to SEMA but never got to into steering had a steering guy, but he passed away. So now I'm learning about it.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,362
Likes: 35
From: Wisconsin
The above crossover steering i built myself. A good eye will see the bung (hole) on the passenger side of the tierod.When i first built this setup i designed it as a "T" style steering where the drag link connects to the tierod. The benefit of this is almost exact same length drag link and tracbar. Heyyou mentioned this above. However, the downside is/was the tie rod wants to rotate up/down when turning. This causes a very slight dead spot or play in the steering wheel.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.
By going to true crossover (where the draglink now connects to the passenger side knuckle) the play is completely removed and the tires turn 100% with every slight movement of the steering wheel which is what the OP was wanting/needing i beileve. I was able to move the draglink above the pitman arm to keep it parallel with tracbar. I have basically zero bumpsteer. At least non that can be felt.