I'm not sure if this is it or not but I found a Rustoleum product: Rust-Oleum Automotive 248659 8-Ounce Rust Reformer Bottle, Black

I have used other products like this in the past. They are pretty expensive but you can reuse it if you soak bolts and things in it for a while at least. (I drain it through a paper towel) I like to drop rusty bolts in the this stuff for a while. I assume they are pretty much all the same. This link https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...-FAQs-W48.aspx talks about rust converters containing 2 main ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. The tannic acid turns the oxidized (rusty) metal into iron tannate. (the black looking metal) I have used aerosol can rust converters or the liquid. It seems like the liquid is less expensive but the spray is easier to use on the underside of a car.

Another thing I do with rusty parts is to put them in a oil drain pan and fill it with strong white vinegar. It is slow to act. It can take days.

There is a guy on youtube however who left some rusty tools in strong vinegar for a year or so and it pitted the tools pretty bad.

I hate rusty tools. (I hate rusty cars and rust in general but on tools, I cannot handle rust) If I get even the slightest rust on my tools, they go in vinegar then the rust converter then get polished and oiled. If I can't get the rust out, I buy a new tool and retire it to my loose/extra tool collection. (random sockets and things that say Taiwan on them as their only branding) I do have chinese tools from Harbor Freight and such. I love how the youtuber named "Ave" refers to them as being made out of pure Chinesium. (that guy is pretty funny)

I think the best tool I bought at harbor freight is a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar that cost me about $13 after the 20% coupon. I can't break it even if I put a bar on it. That's the American way.....buy stuff from China. Anyway that tool in particular stands out as very high quality for a very low price.

 

Another option, if you don't mind losing some metal in the process is to get some muric acid. You want to dilute it and be very careful. It is inexpensive and you can get it at the local hardware store. It is like vinegar but you can make it as strong as you like. This stuff can burn a layer off of concrete if used straight. I don't know how you would safely use it on the underside of a car though. It works great for soaking metal items though when diluted properly.

 

I used Chassis Saver paint, (instead of POR 15) on my mower deck when I rebuilt it. That stuff, one it cures, is pretty much indestructible. I could not sandblast it off. (got sloppy) I had to use a grinder....... I only did one coat, and it is VERY durable, still wish I had done two though.... If you want to do more than one, you need to apply subsequent coats before it dries completely......

 

I used the POR-15 on my Excursion and on Brooke's pickup. I used it over paint on the Ex around the wheels and 6-8" along the whole bottom. I may not have used coarse enough sand paper for it to bite properly and it peeled. We welded a new floor in Brooke's pickup and took the whole floor to metal with 50 grit. That peeled also. I cleaned it with thinner before application. I'm not a professional so maybe I did something wrong. I am looking for a different product to try though.

 

I sandblasted to bare metal, and applied the chassis saver. I just blew the excess dust away, and applied it. Still on there three years later. (underside of mower deck, so, you know it takes a beatin'. )

 

Has anyone done an AC clutch on this truck? Also testing new signature.

 

This thread had gone all kinds of directions, so what the heck.....

AC clutches are pretty easy on these. Parts stores have the loaner tools you need, and you need a set of feeler gauges. Remove old clutch using tool, install new clutch using tool, be sure to install shim. Measure your specified clutch gap, repeat process until its right. Install new nut, install belt, go play.

 

I just tried another product today that I bought at Mills Fleet Farm for less than $4.00. It seems like it is an acid gel. It sticks to the surface and you can rinse it off with water after about 5-10 minutes. (longer if you want to remove more stuff) We took the steel mounts off of the Mopar anodized aluminum step bar because they were really rusty and bubbling. I soaked them in vinegar for about 2 day and used a wire brush about 3 times a day.

That worked ok and loosened some of the paint. This rust dissolver is eating up the parts as I type this.

 

Thanks V65Ozzie,

Did you buy the clutch on eBay? I am having trouble finding the parts. It is my fault the thread is going all over the place. It seems that I wanted better MPG and somehow it turned into a discussion on rust and AC components.

Thanks

 

Replacing some parts today.