On a Ford forum, the ABS had air trapped in it. There was a way to trip it with a scanner while bleeding the brakes. Guys that didn't have a scanner with that function would find a loose surface where they could get the ABS to apply, then go home and bleed the brakes.

 

That's interesting. I think I figured out why my red BRAKE light is on. Ok give that a shot though to, wouldn't hurt anyhow.

 

It might take more than once. I trying to remember from a few years ago.

 

ABS light is off but was on when I started the truck. The brake light is one but it's probably because I can't bled driver's rear because the bleeder is stuck. I tried heat, chemicals, and vide grips and I know if I try anymore it's going to snap lol

 

Replace the wheel cylinder.......

 

Eventually am going to but have a short trip so I'll do it when I get back. Closest parts store wants $48 for the 1 ton cylinders

 

How do the lines look on the rear axle? Are they going to come apart willingly? Or are you going to have to replace those as well?

 

Wagner WC79767 1 1/16\" cylinder for $5.35 on Rock Auto

 

​​​​​​ I'll check on the shipping sometimes it's more expensive.

 

Ok here is what I did:
New front 7500lbs calipers
New 1 ton Dodge rear wheel cylinders
New rear hardware
Rests adjusted
Bled all four wheels
Bled proportioning valve with the bleeder on it
Checked all lines no leaks

​​​​​​Brake light still on brakes still feel soft when truck is running. Pedal is firm when it's off. I think I'm also getting brake fade to because when I press the pedal to do a hard stop the brakes don't grip harder.