Brake Problems.... Again
Record Breaker
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,810
Likes: 105
From: PA
Ok here is what I did:
New front 7500lbs calipers
New 1 ton Dodge rear wheel cylinders
New rear hardware
Rests adjusted
Bled all four wheels
Bled proportioning valve with the bleeder on it
Checked all lines no leaks
Brake light still on brakes still feel soft when truck is running. Pedal is firm when it's off. I think I'm also getting brake fade to because when I press the pedal to do a hard stop the brakes don't grip harder.
New front 7500lbs calipers
New 1 ton Dodge rear wheel cylinders
New rear hardware
Rests adjusted
Bled all four wheels
Bled proportioning valve with the bleeder on it
Checked all lines no leaks
Brake light still on brakes still feel soft when truck is running. Pedal is firm when it's off. I think I'm also getting brake fade to because when I press the pedal to do a hard stop the brakes don't grip harder.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
How do I reset the proportioning valve? I didn't see a way to reset it in the FSM. I'm thinking that might be linked to this.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,398
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
What I do is..... Grab a friend, park friend in drivers seat. Have them pump up the brakes, and hold pressure. Crack open a rear bleeder. Do that a couple times, see if the lite goes out. If it doesn't, do the same thing on one of the fronts. 99% of the time, one end or the other will re-center the valve, and things start working as they should.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
What I do is..... Grab a friend, park friend in drivers seat. Have them pump up the brakes, and hold pressure. Crack open a rear bleeder. Do that a couple times, see if the lite goes out. If it doesn't, do the same thing on one of the fronts. 99% of the time, one end or the other will re-center the valve, and things start working as they should.
Thread Starter
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Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Well found out I'm getting fluid too the rear wheel cylinder just none coming out the bleeder so going to replace them, already got them. My ABS light may be on with the BRAKE light because the ABS light didn't light up on startup. FSM said 74 bulb but it turned out to be to small.... So back to the parts store a two hour drive 
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Maybe I am out in left field here, but on mine (I have a 98 1500 4x4 that I am fixing and a 2000 parts truck). Both have an ABS system outboard of the master cylinder and shock, and the pipes from the master cylinder and prop valve go the the ABS.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
Thread Starter
|
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
Maybe I am out in left field here, but on mine (I have a 98 1500 4x4 that I am fixing and a 2000 parts truck). Both have an ABS system outboard of the master cylinder and shock, and the pipes from the master cylinder and prop valve go the the ABS.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,398
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
Maybe I am out in left field here, but on mine (I have a 98 1500 4x4 that I am fixing and a 2000 parts truck). Both have an ABS system outboard of the master cylinder and shock, and the pipes from the master cylinder and prop valve go the the ABS.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
In the picture you posted I don't see the ABS.
Did someone remove the ABS and bypass it with those lines that look to be "home grown" between the master and the proportioning valve? It would seem possible that could cause the signal light to be wacky.
Also, if the lines are actually copper they do not have the strength of the SS ones and over time will stretch/bulge/split or do other things that are sure to result in brake failure.
