Yeah, the carrier is what the ring gear bolts to. You can generally remove/install the axles without damaging the seals, if you are rather careful. Passenger side is bit trickier, just because of the way it is designed. Taking the cad housing off makes life a lot easier.

 

I'm missing the IFS from my 2004 Dodge RAM 4x4 1500 right about now! I'll have to find a factory service manual for this 3/4 ton 2000, apparently I don't know what I should before I start pull it apart.

Now I'm wondering if I can get that joint out of there without pulling the inner shaft.... hmmm...

 

Get your service manual from here.

 

I haven't taken the hub nut off when I've changed the U-joints. Slightly complicated when you have to hold the axle shaft, but it's doable.
Before you take out the passenger side shaft, shift t-case to 4wd. It activates CAD, and slides the collar to inner shaft. That way it's easier to mount the axle shaft. Last time when I was working on RH side axle, I forgot to do that, and had to pull the CAD and place the collar to the inner shaft, because collar drops to housing when shaft is removed in 2wd.

Also, before you mount the shafts, clean out all the sand and debris from the axle tubes, to minimize damage to seals.

 

I'm real interested in how you do that. What tool are you using to push out the bearing caps, and any other tricks - please! Thanks !

 

Nothing special; big hammer, two sockets (one with od slighly smaller than u-joint cap, the other with slighly bigger id than cap), pliers, screwdriver, and piece of 2x4 or similar.
First I take out the snap-rings, then I place the bigger socket on top of the 2x4, then place the hub assembly so the socket is against the axle shaft ear. Then I place the smaller socket on upper u-joint cap. Couple of precise hits with hammer, and the lower cap should come off. Flip the shaft 180 degrees and knock off the other cap. And now you have inner shaft with u-joint still attached. Repeat procedure to remaining caps.
Even though I could use shop press to change the u-joints, I use that hammer/socket method as practise so when I need to change u-joints in the woods, I know how to do it without too much hassle.

 

Thanks! I'm going to give that a go... have to leave town in about an hour, will give this a shot after the holiday. Thanks for the input, if I can pull that off - it'll save me some time and I'll leave as much undisturbed as possible.

 

I tried, so much rust and couldn't get a good angle to get the clips off. Then I spent about an hour coaxing the wheel bearing out of the knuckle. Whomever was in there prior, put a nice coat of anti-seize on the axle to bearing - and did nothing for the wheel bearing... duh. I cleaned the knuckle up, I can see where someone just got on an edge and beat the living crap out of it... but I think it'll be fine.

Wheel bearing sounded fine prior to my coaxing, now I can hear scratching when I turn it. Not sure if it'd go away once I start using it again. On the fence of just ordering a new pair. Any recommendations?

 

If it makes funny noises, replace it.

 

Got the left axle joint removed from the axles. Nothing visually wrong with it, looks fine. I don't think that one was my problem. I probably should get a wheelhub to reassemble, and the outer axle was pretty rusty - I'll have to get a picture. I'm thinking I need a different one.

Economical sources for that outer axle? 2000 Dodge Ram 2500 with dana 60 front axle.

I see Dennys will ship me one for $130.