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binding while in 2wd?

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binding while in 2wd?

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  #1  
Old 06-30-2018, 01:36 AM
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Default binding while in 2wd?

2000 Ram 2500 4x4, 8800lb.

I can move the shifter into 4x4H, and the CAD will engage and light up the dash. Seems like its in 4x4. When I put it in 2H, the light goes out. But in 2H I'm getting 4x4 like binding when I backup and I turn the front wheels. I think I'm getting a little in forward and turning the front wheels. WTH? Truck has been sitting a couple years. I'm just getting it back on the road, but its been resisting !

I checked the tcase shift linkage, the rod is cocked and backed out a little in the bushing on the tcase side. But it still seems to operate. What can I check? I'm tempted to pull the front driveshaft to see if it goes away, but the strap bolts on the yoke look pretty crusty, like if I try to back them out they're going to snap. The heads on those strap bolts seem unusually small.
 

Last edited by fj5gtx; 06-30-2018 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:51 AM
racefan41
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Is it just binding in 2wd after you shift into 2wd like its not disengaging right away, but eventually clears up? When i bought my truck I was having problems shifting in and out of 4wd (getting the light to go out) and it was making a hideous humming and popping sound while driving. I thought my transfer case was shot. Changed out the front u-joint out the front shaft and it was smooth going. The joint itself still had bearings in it, they were just dried up. The other joint next to the t-case was still fine. As far as turning and making any sound, it could be your axle joints.

My light going out issue might have been a vacuum line issue i was having. It was a while ago and not for sure if it was the joint necessarily giving me that problem. It was a while ago and its kind of blurred together.
 

Last edited by racefan41; 06-30-2018 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:39 AM
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When I move to 4x4, it locks up the driveshaft from spinning. In 2wd I can spin the shaft w/o issue. Pretty sure that is the way its supposed to work.

I got the front shaft front ujoint removed from the axle flange... It wasn't bound up, but its pretty rusty so I'll be putting a new one in there. The rear shaft joints seems pretty good from what I can tell, I have 2 bolts out and 2 more to go.

I thought I was hearing the bind on both axles, which made me think the tcase was f'd up.
 
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:03 PM
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I agree with racefan41. Your U-joints were probably getting dry and rusted up while sitting. Now they're binding and the CAD won't release. Spicer 5-332X has needle grease fitting in the cap so you can actually grease it once it's in the truck. For the axle shafts.
 
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:53 PM
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+3 for front axle shaft u-joints. u-joints don't like to much angle, 0 degree angle and sitting.
 
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:17 PM
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Got the front driveshaft out. Tried some turns and reverse, not as violent - but still there and now just in the front. Difference is, I drove it for a couple miles last night - and now this time I just drove it less than 100 feet. Maybe as it warms up, it gets even tighter?

I put the front axle on jack stands. pulled the wheels and brakes on the right side. Can not see a smoking gun here, it all looks fine and doesn't seem tight when I turn and rotate the wheels.

I don't think the CAD is on, because I everything turns independently - the axle yoke, and both wheels. If CAD was on, I'm thinking something would be connected.

Its a pile of work to get at those joints (and compounded by 18 years in the rust belt....thinking of replacing the bearings and joints too while I"m in there... so its like $500+ for decent brand parts. I'd feel alot more like doing it, if I could be sure that is the problem.

How could I verify those axle joints are bad?

Thanks!
 

Last edited by fj5gtx; 06-30-2018 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:30 AM
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With the front end jacked up, turn the wheels to the lock, and then try and spin 'em.
 
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou View Post
With the front end jacked up, turn the wheels to the lock, and then try and spin 'em.
I did that again this morning. They spin less than if they are straight forward, but no hard binding or anything like that. I don't know what else to check, I tried it running and not (thinking maybe vacuum is being applied to the CAD when running) - but no difference. I already have the ujoints on the shelf. Guess I'll try to just try the ujoints and try to reuse everything else - see if that solves my problems. The balljoints aren't loose, and the wheel bearing seems ok.

I guess I'll need to find some new axle seals, I don't have those on the shelf. I have to go find a huge socket, like 43 or 44mm for that axle nut. If I can source those seals locally, maybe I get those ujoints RnRd today and see if it solves the issue.
 
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:48 AM
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Passenger side seal is fairly easy, drivers side seal..... is not. Gotta pull the carrier to change that one.
 
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:21 AM
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The carrier, what do you mean the carrier? The diff? Any tips on getting the axle out w/o hosing the seal? I want to avoid that kind of work... and I've got expensive and fresh lube in that axle...

Can't find the 43mm (1-11/16 inch) axle socket locally today. Guess I'll work on that front driveshaft, I need to find a replacement front shaft ujoint though... will probably have issues sourcing that today as well.
 
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