Yeah, need to start combating rust with cavity wax.... or fluid film. Spray down the best yearly, won't have all the corrosion based issues.

BTW, when you go to remove that soft/hard line, do not twist the nipple off the main hard line - else you'll have more work to do. I've used a propane torch to warm up the socket with success, (it'll expand) so I can get the tube nut out. Just make sure you purge those lines and get some new fluid in there.

 

I checked it again today and the inside pad is worn down almost to 30-20% already! The outside pad looks decent at like 90%, almost like its not pressing that side down as much. I just put these in like less than a month ago. When I looked at the soft line, it looked fine, I'll post a picture of it soon, but there much "rust" around the bends or clamps. The inside of the rotor is also pretty worn and has grooves in it. I need to wait until I can have a friend come and press the brakes while I bleed them to change these out again, but dang this is the second set of pads and rotors I've put on this thing already. (On the passenger side)

Would not bleeding the brakes properly lead to something like this?

 

If the pads are only wearing the inside, the caliper is seized on the guide pins.

 

So should I go get another caliper and rotor and replace them or should I just take the guide pin out and grease it a little more?

 

Just pull the pins, clean, and grease them. Be generous.

 

I'll go do that right now haha, I'll letcha know how it goes, I should probably try to replace that inside pad too, but I can't bleed the brakes today, I'll do that next week.

 

If your pedal feels good, don't need to bleed them. No need to open the bleeder to compress the piston back into the caliper either. (though, it is sometimes easier that way.) Just changing pads, shouldn't need to open the system up at all.

 

Its nearly impossible to get the piston to move back into the caliper without releasing some fluid, or at least makes it a hell of a lot easier for me.

 

I use a c-clamp, or, a large pair of channel locks. Works great. If you are still have trouble with it, may wanna look at replacing the soft line.....

 

+1 on a c-clamp