Steering gear swap - can I do this?
#1
Steering gear swap - can I do this?
I picked up a 2000 RAM 4WD where the previous owner had clipped a guardrail which somehow trashed the steering box. I'm in the process of swapping the steering box out (it blew a seal ) and had some procedural questions I'm hoping I can get some help with...
When I took delivery of the truck, the steering wheel was not rotationally centered when the car was pointed straight ahead.
During installation, assuming I've not messed with the position of the steering components, can I:
- Install the new steering gear, attach the steering pump and 'bleed' the system without attaching the pitman arm (IE - engine off, rotate steering wheel back and forth to bleed air while filling the system)?
- Center the steering wheel with the steering linkage detached from the steering gear, then align the registration splines as close as possible to get it back together (it looks like the registration splines are spaced to allow for 1/4 turn rotations before mating)?
The seal on the drag link was also trashed, so I'm going to swap that out as well.
- Do I need to be crazy precise on making sure the replacement drag link is the same distance into the adjustment sleeve?
Anything else I should check for while going through this? Everything else looks OK for that year of vehicle. I'm not that familiar with them, so I wouldn't know which linkage bends are correct and which were a result of the accident. The tires look aligned, but I can't imagine an impact that'd rupture a steering gear seal wouldn't do other damage. Unless the beast drives straight-as-an-arrow when I put it together, I'll likely take it in to get professionally aligned.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice folks can give! Looking forward to having a nice running RAM!
When I took delivery of the truck, the steering wheel was not rotationally centered when the car was pointed straight ahead.
During installation, assuming I've not messed with the position of the steering components, can I:
- Install the new steering gear, attach the steering pump and 'bleed' the system without attaching the pitman arm (IE - engine off, rotate steering wheel back and forth to bleed air while filling the system)?
- Center the steering wheel with the steering linkage detached from the steering gear, then align the registration splines as close as possible to get it back together (it looks like the registration splines are spaced to allow for 1/4 turn rotations before mating)?
The seal on the drag link was also trashed, so I'm going to swap that out as well.
- Do I need to be crazy precise on making sure the replacement drag link is the same distance into the adjustment sleeve?
Anything else I should check for while going through this? Everything else looks OK for that year of vehicle. I'm not that familiar with them, so I wouldn't know which linkage bends are correct and which were a result of the accident. The tires look aligned, but I can't imagine an impact that'd rupture a steering gear seal wouldn't do other damage. Unless the beast drives straight-as-an-arrow when I put it together, I'll likely take it in to get professionally aligned.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice folks can give! Looking forward to having a nice running RAM!
#2
#3
I'm more worried about screwing up wiring or some self-centering thing if I rotate the steering wheel without it plugged into the steering box. I can't think of anything that'd be damaged, but better to ask...
Once I get it back together, it should be pretty easy to troubleshoot any other weirdness.
#4
Is there a clock spring in your steering column? (not sure on the newer trucks....) It DOES sound like someone goofed a previous install/alignment.... I agree, if something were bent that bed, it should be patently obvious. If you DO have a clock spring, gotta be REAL careful what you do with the steering wheel, as the clock spring breaks if you turn it too far in either direction.
#6
#7
Is there a clock spring in your steering column? (not sure on the newer trucks....) It DOES sound like someone goofed a previous install/alignment.... I agree, if something were bent that bed, it should be patently obvious. If you DO have a clock spring, gotta be REAL careful what you do with the steering wheel, as the clock spring breaks if you turn it too far in either direction.
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#8
I knew all the second gens do. At the time of that posting, this thread was in the Third Gen section. (no, I wasn't paying close enough attention.....) Some folks do it differently..... and have a 'contact disk', which doesn't care how far it gets turned.
#9
I picked up a 2000 RAM 4WD where the previous owner had clipped a guardrail which somehow trashed the steering box. I'm in the process of swapping the steering box out (it blew a seal ) and had some procedural questions I'm hoping I can get some help with...
When I took delivery of the truck, the steering wheel was not rotationally centered when the car was pointed straight ahead.
During installation, assuming I've not messed with the position of the steering components, can I:
- Install the new steering gear, attach the steering pump and 'bleed' the system without attaching the pitman arm (IE - engine off, rotate steering wheel back and forth to bleed air while filling the system)?
- Center the steering wheel with the steering linkage detached from the steering gear, then align the registration splines as close as possible to get it back together (it looks like the registration splines are spaced to allow for 1/4 turn rotations before mating)?
The seal on the drag link was also trashed, so I'm going to swap that out as well.
- Do I need to be crazy precise on making sure the replacement drag link is the same distance into the adjustment sleeve?
Anything else I should check for while going through this? Everything else looks OK for that year of vehicle. I'm not that familiar with them, so I wouldn't know which linkage bends are correct and which were a result of the accident. The tires look aligned, but I can't imagine an impact that'd rupture a steering gear seal wouldn't do other damage. Unless the beast drives straight-as-an-arrow when I put it together, I'll likely take it in to get professionally aligned.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice folks can give! Looking forward to having a nice running RAM!
When I took delivery of the truck, the steering wheel was not rotationally centered when the car was pointed straight ahead.
During installation, assuming I've not messed with the position of the steering components, can I:
- Install the new steering gear, attach the steering pump and 'bleed' the system without attaching the pitman arm (IE - engine off, rotate steering wheel back and forth to bleed air while filling the system)?
- Center the steering wheel with the steering linkage detached from the steering gear, then align the registration splines as close as possible to get it back together (it looks like the registration splines are spaced to allow for 1/4 turn rotations before mating)?
The seal on the drag link was also trashed, so I'm going to swap that out as well.
- Do I need to be crazy precise on making sure the replacement drag link is the same distance into the adjustment sleeve?
Anything else I should check for while going through this? Everything else looks OK for that year of vehicle. I'm not that familiar with them, so I wouldn't know which linkage bends are correct and which were a result of the accident. The tires look aligned, but I can't imagine an impact that'd rupture a steering gear seal wouldn't do other damage. Unless the beast drives straight-as-an-arrow when I put it together, I'll likely take it in to get professionally aligned.
Thanks in advance for any help/advice folks can give! Looking forward to having a nice running RAM!
- NO
- Count the threads and get it as close as you can
You're wanting to do the exact wrong thing. If everything is disconnected:
1. Tie down steering wheel to seat frame so that it is perfectly centered. Do not turn the wheel AT ALL unless connected to linkage as it will destroy the clock spring.
2. Install the gear box, and hoses from pump,
3. Install pitman arm as perpendicular to the axle as possible (using installation notches).
4. Straighten the wheels as accurate as possible with rear wheels, install drag link to pitman arm and associated tie rods to knuckles by adjusting sleeves to meet the straightened wheels. This will get you close to alignment.
5. Only when everything is attached and lined up should you bleed the system (jack up front axle, turn wheels lock to lock with engine OFF several dozen times until any and all bubbles are out of pump). Then adjust sleeves to get toe to ZERO and you should be good. There should only be minute adjustments needed to dial in the toe.
Hopefully you're only using a Redhead gear box or you will have a higher chance of doing it again soon. (But even they can be duds).
#10
- NO
- NO
- Count the threads and get it as close as you can
You're wanting to do the exact wrong thing. If everything is disconnected:
1. Tie down steering wheel to seat frame so that it is perfectly centered. Do not turn the wheel AT ALL unless connected to linkage as it will destroy the clock spring.
2. Install the gear box, and hoses from pump,
3. Install pitman arm as perpendicular to the axle as possible (using installation notches).
4. Straighten the wheels as accurate as possible with rear wheels, install drag link to pitman arm and associated tie rods to knuckles by adjusting sleeves to meet the straightened wheels. This will get you close to alignment.
5. Only when everything is attached and lined up should you bleed the system (jack up front axle, turn wheels lock to lock with engine OFF several dozen times until any and all bubbles are out of pump). Then adjust sleeves to get toe to ZERO and you should be good. There should only be minute adjustments needed to dial in the toe.
Hopefully you're only using a Redhead gear box or you will have a higher chance of doing it again soon. (But even they can be duds).
- NO
- Count the threads and get it as close as you can
You're wanting to do the exact wrong thing. If everything is disconnected:
1. Tie down steering wheel to seat frame so that it is perfectly centered. Do not turn the wheel AT ALL unless connected to linkage as it will destroy the clock spring.
2. Install the gear box, and hoses from pump,
3. Install pitman arm as perpendicular to the axle as possible (using installation notches).
4. Straighten the wheels as accurate as possible with rear wheels, install drag link to pitman arm and associated tie rods to knuckles by adjusting sleeves to meet the straightened wheels. This will get you close to alignment.
5. Only when everything is attached and lined up should you bleed the system (jack up front axle, turn wheels lock to lock with engine OFF several dozen times until any and all bubbles are out of pump). Then adjust sleeves to get toe to ZERO and you should be good. There should only be minute adjustments needed to dial in the toe.
Hopefully you're only using a Redhead gear box or you will have a higher chance of doing it again soon. (But even they can be duds).
Thanks though, I'll follow it.
A little confusion on step #1 - I'm to secure the wheel perfectly centered but not to turn the wheel at all? Currently, it's in the exact position it was when I pulled the steering box, which is ~180 degrees out of alignment (the tires are pointing straight). Should I secure it in it's current position, or rotate it until it's centered then secure it?
I'll try to take a couple of pics tonight. They're worth at least a thousand words