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good water pumps?

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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 12:23 PM
  #21  
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Finally got around to working on this project and immediately ran into trouble. I can't break the fan clutch nut loose. I ended up breaking one pin on my pulley holder. I ordered more pins but they won't be here until tomorrow. Tried sticking 1/4 inch bolts in the pulley holes to hold it that way and the bolts just bent (grade 5). Didn't have any grade 8 bolts around. I know I torqued that nut to the specified torque of 40 ft lbs in my haynes manual last time I had it off. Don't remember if I put any antisieze on it back then.

Next plan is to put some heat to the nut, but I need my new pins to show up for the pulley tool. Anybody have any suggestions?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 01:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by chromed95
Finally got around to working on this project and immediately ran into trouble. I can't break the fan clutch nut loose. I ended up breaking one pin on my pulley holder. I ordered more pins but they won't be here until tomorrow. Tried sticking 1/4 inch bolts in the pulley holes to hold it that way and the bolts just bent (grade 5). Didn't have any grade 8 bolts around. I know I torqued that nut to the specified torque of 40 ft lbs in my haynes manual last time I had it off. Don't remember if I put any antisieze on it back then.

Next plan is to put some heat to the nut, but I need my new pins to show up for the pulley tool. Anybody have any suggestions?
My pumps always came with the pulley. I would either rent the fan clutch removal tool or pull the whole pump with the fan and put it in a vise
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 12:40 AM
  #23  
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Just a thought, but you aren't trying to go clockwise are you? These fan nuts are normal lefty when facing the engine.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramman18
Just a thought, but you aren't trying to go clockwise are you? These fan nuts are normal lefty when facing the engine.
No I'm turning it the right way. Before I even started I looked at the threads on the new pump just to make sure.

Here's an update though, I took the AC pump, alternator and accessory bracket off last night for ease of changing the bypass hose and found that the hose is rotten at both clamps on it. I'm now positive that's where my coolant leak is from. That was a brand new hose 40,000 miles ago. I'm debating whether or not to actually change the water pump now.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 12:13 PM
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Also, I may have ripped the hose that comes off the tube from the water pump, routes back the driver side of the engine, turns behind the engine and slides onto the heater core. Looks to me like it's a molded hose behind the engine and where it slides onto the heater core. Anybody know the name of that hose?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by chromed95
Also, I may have ripped the hose that comes off the tube from the water pump, routes back the driver side of the engine, turns behind the engine and slides onto the heater core. Looks to me like it's a molded hose behind the engine and where it slides onto the heater core. Anybody know the name of that hose?
I would assume Inlet/Outlet Heater Core hous
 
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 03:44 PM
  #27  
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Yeah, that's the heater core outlet hose. Should be enough length on it, that you can cut off a couple inches without trouble.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 11:48 AM
  #28  
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Any thoughts on this? I may have goofed up my heater core in the process of all this. I decided to replace the entire heater core outlet hose since it was pretty soft. Upon trying to get it off the outlet tube on the core, I get my pliers and squeezed and tried rotating the hose on the tube to try and break the hose loose. I did not realize the tubes were brass and I collapsed it some. Ended up cutting the hose off to expose my damage. I didn't squeeze the tube completely flat. I was able to get a punch in there and use my pliers to form the tube again, which I think I did pretty good.

The thing I'm worried about now is that when pulling on the hose initially, I feel i pulled the tube out a little bit which may have done some damage to the core behind the firewall? The tube is sticking out a good 3 inches from the firewall and I don't know how much it was supposed to be sticking out before. I won't know for sure I guess until I put coolant back in her and run the heater. It's just my luck these days!

On another note, you're probably thinking why the heck I haven't finished this easy water pump job yet. Between farming and helping others with their pickups, I chip away at mine when I get a chance. Gives me a chance to drive my diesel more
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 02:57 PM
  #29  
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You mean it's 3" more than the other tube? They do stick out a few inches normally but can easily bend being so soft. I guess you have to at least try it to see if any leak will occur. Otherwise you'd have to add the core job to your 'free time.'

When I did my core this spring, the hoses had completely fused to the tubes and I had to cut the tubes from behind the dash. Not fun. Then I removed the old pieces. But I hate trying to work back at the firewall. Such a pain.
 
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 06:21 PM
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Hoses like that I usually cut off just beyond the tube, then spilt it lengthwise (utility knife), and peal the rubber away from the tube.
Then it’s just a matter of cleaning what’s left off the tube ready for the new hose.
 
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