You're going to want to have them inspected by a machine shop. Valve guides are often too tight.

 

Thanks for the tip!

Any other parts I should look at replacing when I do the work? The distributor cap, wires, timing chain, and water pump all only have about 5k miles on them.

 

1.7 ratio roller rockers? Hardened pushrods?

How far do you plan on tearing the motor down? Just doing top end? Or complete rebuild?

 

I'll look into those when the time gets closer.

Just the top end. I'll probably do a full rebuild at some point in the future though.

 

The wife don't need that car!
Check the alternator and get it tested, and the crank seal.

 

Yeah, I wish! But needed a newer safer car for transporting the kid.

Thanks! Alternator was rebuilt in the last 5k miles. Will check the crank seal though (should drop the pan anyway to check the pickup tube. Not having any issues, but been meaning to look at it).

 

Before purchasing all this, you mentioned the comp test and its readings. HOWEVER, do another. Both dry and wet tests. Pending how the wet test compares to dry, you might be dropping a G that is not going to do you any good.

 

I did the test dry, and then wet. Numbers were pretty consistent between the two tests.

 

good good. I don't stop in here much anymore so wasn't sure if that had been posted before. But that points away from rings which is good. Could do a leakdown for S&G but that's up to you.

as for other parts, 2bbl m1/ airgap is a great pair with those heads if you can score the right deal. 1.7 rockers are ok too but unless the ones you choose have guideplates you don't need to worry about hardened rods

 

Ok, good to know. I actually have a new M1 intake that I'm not using. Not sure if I will use it or not. With it being a heavy truck, I'd be a little concerned about how much torque I'd lose. Thanks for the tip on the rockers though.