putting the truck in neutral doesn't change anything I did find one of the ignition fuses that was blown but it didn't change anything anything else?

 

Do you have power on pin 30 of the starter relay?

 

Voltage meter 101:
All vehicles made in the US in the last 50+ years have a negative (-) ground. The negative terminal of the battery is attached to the body, the chassis and the engine which is essentially the same as saying that every exposed piece of bare metal is probably connected to the negative side of the battery. So, most of the time, you can just look for an exposed piece of bare metal anywhere convenient to attach the black lead of your meter to read a point of voltage with the red lead on a contact or on a wire. However, there are many exceptions to this. A bolt that is screwed into a piece of plastic or a metal part that is insulated by a plastic mount will not.

1. Your meter should have a settings for AC Volts and settings for DC Volts. Identify which is which. Automobiles use DC. Your house outlets are AC. Use the DC settings.
2. Both the AC and the DC settings have ranges. The numbers at these settings indicate the maximum voltage that the meter can read at those settings. An average meter will have a 20V setting. You can measure any voltage at the 20V setting up to 20V. Your truck doesn't have any voltages over 15 volts and when it is not running, the maximum voltage anywhere on the truck will be no more than 12.5 at best. Its typical to see voltages from 10.8 to 13 depending on the quality of your meter and the state of charge of your battery.
3. Most consumer level meters have detachable leads. The black lead goes into the hole marked "Common", "Ground", or is just a black dot. If your meter has only two connections it's rather obvious how to connect the leads. If your meter has more than two connections available, one combination is usually for measuring milliamps (MA, ma, or Ma) which is not applicable to what you are doing. Most of the time, the options of lead connections are indicated in some sort of universal interpretable symbols.
4. When you think you have the setting dial and the leads connected properly, touch the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery and the red lead to the positive terminal of the battery. The meter should indicate something around 12V. It does not need to be exactly 12V. If it does not indicate voltage, there is something wrong with how you've set up the meter or the meter is defective. Doing this measurement on the battery is important. It verifies that the meter is working and it also verifies that the truck battery has voltage. ALWAYS check that the meter is working before using a meter to make decisions or troubleshooting problems ALWAYS. If you get a reading of around 12V, you are ready to use the meter.
5. Touch the red lead to the positive terminal of the battery and keep it there. Now touch the black lead to a number of random bare metal surfaces in the engine compartment one at a time. Most of the time, you will get a 12V reading when both leads have good contact. But you should discover that this is not always the case. Sometimes you won't get a reading on the meter and sometimes the reading on the meter is intermittent. Notice that there will usually be places where you need to be a little more purposeful with how you touch the lead to the point of measurement to get a reading. Surface oxidation and dirt can interrupt the connections so you need to be sure that both leads are getting good contact to trust that the meter is telling you the truth. and... not every metal looking part on a vehicle is electrically connected to ground. The reason you need to understand this is that it is very inconvenient to attach the black lead from the meter to the negative side of the battery when you're looking for voltage in places that are distant from the location of the battery. When you are looking for voltages, it is a good idea to find a way to wedge the tip of the black lead to ground in a manner that keeps it there hands free. This lets you fully concentrate on counting pin numbers and lets you use both hands to deal with holding things and focusing on using the red lead without shorting out connectors or breaking things. I might even loosen a grounding lug attaches to the fender well or the firewall and tighten the black lead of the meter under a bolt. But I always verify that the meter is working by attaching the red lead to a known 12V source before I proceed to troubleshoot.

Learn to use a meter and you'll be twice as able to figure things out yourself. There is more that the average cheap meter can do than read voltage. The meter that I use on a daily basis at work is a $35 meter from Harbor Freight and it'll do everything I need it to do on a car.

Sorry to those who already know how to use a meter.

 

so went out his morning and battery was dead and its been doing this recently where ill leave it overnight and it will be dead in a coupe hours is this related?

 

Maybe. Generally, that's a result of either the underhood light, or the glovebox lite staying on.

 

underhood lights been out forever and same with the glove boxlight

 

Solve the starting problem first, then go after the battery drain.

 

I Had the same issue with my truck as a temporary fix I ran the remote wire for the starter straight to the terminal to get me where I had to go until I was able to install a switch on that same wire with a 4-way relay and fuse, haven't had any issues since. Also no one can figure out how to start my truck if I don't show them which is a plus, kind of like an anti-theft feature! If your interested I'll post a picture of the wiring diagram

 

ideally im trying to get the system back to normal because im not the only one who uses this truck
also ran the voltmeter to the relay points in the fuse box and got these number
30-13.7
85-2.1
86-13.1
87-1.5
are these numbers accurate or is one off?

 

did you have the key turned at that point?