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bad oil pressure

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Old Feb 14, 2019 | 06:00 PM
  #11  
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Ok guys sorry we had a snow storm hit.
today I pulled the radiaor condenser and what not. Got the fan off and the 1 1/4” crank bolt out still can’t get the harmonic balancer pulley off with the 3 jaw remover tool.. keeps sliding off. what else do I need to remove to get to the timing cover, water pump as well?
 
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 09:03 AM
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balancer needs to come off. Are there bolt holes in it that you can use a different style puller on?
 
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 02:46 PM
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Well okay guys thanks for all your input
i got the balancer off. Water pump had to come off as well as the compressor and I took the alternator off as a cluster.. I’m going to need a head gasket. Not sure what’s up with the timing chain though I was expecting to see some tensioner/slacks or guards of some sort for the chain one side some pretty taunt the other side has quite a bit of slack. The oil pump bolts didn’t look backed out but whoever did this last just way over did it with rtv gasket maker. Here’s another link
 
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 02:50 PM
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Yeah, clean that all up good before putting it back together. Chain should probably be replaced. Might just as well put on a new water pump as well..... Check condition of all the hoses too.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2019 | 06:37 PM
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Before spending $, I recommend getting those caps off and inspect your crank. If the caps are stuck, tap on either end outward until it releases.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 02:47 PM
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I removed one of the easily accessible bearings here is what it looks like. The journal on the crank looks okay? The bearing didn’t seem horrible but I wouldn’t really know.

how do I tell what way to number them 1-10 like front of motor to back or back to front. And I’m not exactly sure how to tell what size bearings I will need. Once I get more time and good weather I’ll try to take all the caps off in an order and inspect my oil pump further. Then go after the head gasket. Once I get to that point I’ll probably be inspecting every cylinder and maybe changing pistons and rings while I’m at it lol. I’m saving up to get a new car and took this beast of the road for right now. I don’t want to scrap it i have it this far apart already I might as well try to learn something building this and if it blows up I’ll try to fin another V10’s or see about putting a Cummings in it lol.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 05:43 PM
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Odd number cylinders are on the drivers side. Front to back: 1, 3, 5, 7, 9. Even number are down the passenger side. I use a punch, or some such, to mark the bearing caps before removal, so I know which one goes where, and in what orientation.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Thomas VBC
I removed one of the easily accessible bearings here is what it looks like. The journal on the crank looks okay? The bearing didn’t seem horrible but I wouldn’t really know.


I think it is best to look at the one that was loose from your prior video. I can see some marks on the crank/bearing surface, wipe the oil off so we can see better.

Sometimes bearings are marked the backside, side facing the cap. If you want to refresh the engine, its going to have to come out and pulled apart. Get the crank checked, and polished (ground if necessary) then you buy bearings that the machine shop tells you to. Use plasticgauge to check their work. Lots of videos up to show you how, its not that hard - but can be calendar time consuming.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2019 | 09:52 PM
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Before diving in to deep/expensive, use plastigauge on the bearings, and see what your current clearances look like. There is some discoloration on the crank journal, but, nothing I would worry about, post a pic of the bearing. That tells more of the tale than anything else.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2019 | 03:04 AM
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There is discoloration on the surface but I personally wouldn't worry about it. Use a gauge to see what the tolerances are.
 
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