I have a 2001 dodge ram 2500 8.0L v10. On cold starts i was having an issue with my low oil pressure guage going off. It would read zero on start knock for a few seconds till i either revd the engine or turned it off and back on and the guage would then read normal and knock would go away.
My oil pressure sending unit was broken but i didnt think that alone would attribute to the cold start knock i was hearing.
After dropping the oil pan(didn't think i was going to be able to without picking up the motor for clearance but if you remove the pickup tube you can slide the pan out)
i had a broken down gasket totally clogging my pickup screen. and my oil was dark as night.
Im hoping that's the end of my problems but i was thinking it would be a good idea to check the oil pump before i put the pan back on and possibly change my rod bearings since i have the pan out already. i havent done either of those before but figured it couldnt be that hard.
Does anyone know if i can remove my harmonic balancer and get to the oil pump without pulling the radiator? I am also having a hard time finding parts i think im going to need the oil pump relief valve set cant seem to find it. if anyone could help me out with some more information thatd be great thanks

 

Having the radiator out of the way will certainly make your life easier..... These engines also have been know for the cover bolts for the oil pump (the ones on the inside.....) loosening up, and you losing oil pressure that way as well. (just something else to check/address) Oil pumps and such are still available, but yeah, the are getting to be fun to find. If you search by the OEM part number though, google can generally come up with something.

Is you know a bottom end noise? Or is it valvetrain?? Mine rattles pretty good at startup, but, it is indeed valve train for me.

 

I just wanted to say you can't judge oil by it's color. Even fresh oil will turn back within 30 minutes of driving. The oil turning back just means it's doing it's job. I never owned a V10 so listen to HeyYou but everything you mentioned isn't hard to do at all. The only think is try to figure out where the noise is coming from.

 

 

No they shouldn't. Might have to get oversized ones.

 

I don't think the side to side play is as important as bearing clearances......

 

You got a point there but those are suppose to be tight which tells me they are worn

 

Unbolt the cap, pull the cap and bearing off and lets see the bearing and crank journal surface... pay attention to the orientation of the cap and bearing - don't reassemble it reversed. Don't do that unless you already own, or until you have bought a torque wrench!

 

I would suggest checking that clearance with a feeler gauge and checking the rod/crank clearance with plastigauge. As long as you have it that far torn down.

 

I suspect we're going to see something nasty under that cap that isn't worth wasting the plastigauge, But good to have on hand - just in case the journal/bearing isn't visibly hosed up.