My Father always said "If it's not broke, the don't fix it!" but if you are going this far I and you have the proficiency and know how, I would replace the head gaskets with a good set of Felpro's. Why? Because it would really suck to do all that on your truck and not replace the head gaskets and then a few 1000 miles down the road the blow and start leaking and then you have to tear everything apart again. It's a catch 22. Any comments? No saying I'm right or wrong just wanted to throw that out there.

 

Much better to have everything on a same thread than have separate threads on every update. Easier to keep on track on everything that's been done, and it's also easier for others to help when all that's been done is on a one thread.

 

I thought about replacing the head gaskets but it seems the popular opinion is to not touch them. I think once I have the plenum and the valve covers off I might have a better shot at taking a look at the Head gaskets and seeing if they're bad or not in good looking shape. If that's the case then yea I probably will. Truth be told I am not all that sure about the know how, but I am willing and motivated to learn. On the other hand it has taken years, and several set backs to even get the truck so to break it before I ever even get to drive it would be a blow. Probably why I ask a lot of mundane questions.

I will say I think I saw some leaking up near the timing cover. The valve covers are horrible. I would not be surprised if the head gaskets were on their way out. Fingers crossed they're are fine.

 

Pressure test the cooling system before you open anything up. In all reality, I personally feel it is a 'waste of time' to *just* do head gaskets, as the heads on these trucks are notorious for cracking, and other issues in any event. If I were going to go to all the trouble to pull the heads, I would NOT just slap them back on with new gaskets....... I would simply replace them with NEW, better casting heads.......

 

Good sir! A link for the needy on these heads? Are they ready to go? Like I could just slap them in and call it a day or is there some other crazy stuff I would have to do?

But if you replace the head gaskets that would help prevent the heads from cracking right? Or.. is that going to happen regardless? Are they that much of a pain to do? I thought it was just some bolts and they were under the valve covers

 

EBay has 'em from a variety of sellers. Prices are all over the place. Used to be, you could get a set, ready to bolt on, for around 600 bucks. Those are getting harder to find of late. Odessa Cylinder Head, and Clearwater Cylinder head were the primary sellers. (and actually they are the same company, just different names.... no clue what that's all about.) You should be able to find a pair of ready-to-bolt-on heads for 600 to 1000 bucks. Make sure you are looking at the NEW casting heads, NOT the reman fellers.

Stock heads had thin decks, and are prone to cracking around the valve seats. Gaskets have nothing to do with that. Basically, there just just cheap castings. New castings have thicker decks, and handle heat dissipation MUCH better. (so, they aren't as prone to cracking.)

Yep, bunch of bolts under the valve covers, and, as I recall, some under the exhaust manifolds as well, so, they would have to come off first. (which can be fun, as they like to corrode in a major way, and getting them out is a pain. but, if you are replacing the heads in any event, doesn't really matter if the bolts break, or come out. )

It's a real job..... but, with the intake/valve covers off, you are most of the way there already. Adds a couple hours to the job.

 

Thanks for the Info HeyYou. I read somewhere that the engine needed to be in top dead center before you can pull the timing chain. Is that the same thing at the two notches on the timing sprockets notches being lined up in the 6'o clock and 12'o clock positions or do I need to look under the valve covers and make sure valve one is at the top with the notch in the harmonic balancer at the in the very middle? I also ask because I read that in order to take the heads off the engine needs to be a TDC as well.

 

Pull the timing cover, line up the dots, swap the gears/chain, and make sure the dots are lined up the same way. Don't move anything while the chain/gears are off. That makes life way to interesting.

You can pull the heads regardless of engine position. It just doesn't matter. When removing the rockers/pushrods though, keep track of EXACTLY where they come from. It is important to put them back in the same spot.

 

Okay.. so now I am torn. I am almost of the mind set that I should save some money and just buy new heads. I mean if I am already doing all that work and I am already going to have it completely torn apart... I am just trying to think if its wise to sink all these new parts into it only to have the heads crack down the line. Now Im back at square 1 PLUS additional parts that I would have to replace by going back in. What would you do HeyYou? Problem is I wouldn't have the money for at least another month or two. Would it be okay to have it sit there?

**EDIT**
As far as getting new heads are concerned do I need to pull my old ones out and send them my cast numbers first before I purchase new ones? Or is the 318 virtually the same across the 5.2l?

I dunno, I am just thinking if I am going to do it do it right and make sure it actually lasts. What do y'all think?

 

If you don't have a head gasket/head problem at the moment, don't worry about it right now. Save your pennies, and when you have enough cash layin' around, deal with it then. If the truck hasn't been driven for some time, probably a lot of little things are gong to want attention. So, deal with maintenance, and the broke stuff first, and see if any other major components are going to be wanting attention, before diving into those that currently don't.