i just looked at it again, and on the male connector, when I look at the pins and interior bottom, it's slightly higher/raised than the base of the connector @ the transmission. i.e., the pins don't go all the way down that extra 1/4 inch. But still, this connector is designed to lock, so something is up. I wonder if I can remove the rubber seal (female) and see if that will allow it to travel further down.


* Tried taking off the rubber/gel seal..no dice. It can't be taken off to be able to reuse it again. Tried removing it with a pick tool, and I couldn't get under the layer to pull it out. Oh well.

 

You are in a predicament. It's raining here or I would look at mine for you.

 

Heres a picture I found from another one, it doesn't seem to go all the way down either. But sure, I would appreciate your pic once weather clears up for you. Thank you.

 

When I put mine on/off/on/off it didn't feel like it went on and seated properly. If it drives with normal shifting, it's on. If it requires manual shifting it's off.

 

I had to goto the dump today, and took truck. There and about 3/4 of the way back it was driving ok for its limp mode that I've been living with for the last year. Come down the hill, give it some gas and WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA 5k RPM near redline, and truck just maintaining a slow steady speed @ 20-30mph..staying in gear and not shifting. Drop it in Neutral, then Drive, and no reset. I would do that when it used to do this weird neutral slip thing (b4 I replaced the solenoid and transducer 1st time), and dropping it into Drive would temp. fix it. Not anymore...it stayed there. Pulled over, turned off truck, turned back on and it was still doing it. Luckily I was about 1 mile from home, and just went slow to granny it back home (at 3-4k rpm). It's never been this bad. When we bought the truck 1.5 years ago, it had a horrible slip (see my prev thread), and did the band adjustment and solenoid and transducer repair and truck drove like a dream for about 2 weeks, then got the p1763/p1762 code. Waited months for weather to get better, replaced the transducer again, and this happens. This is a piece of crap. Prev owner did not take care of this. I mean, when I did the band external band adjustment, I have that son-of-a-bitch way in there = so the bands must be really worn. (backed of 2x turns front and rear), but I think if they were less worn, the band adjustment would be sticking out more, and not be inset so far that the locknut barely grabs it = this is just to illustrate that prev owner did not take good care of this truck. Engine seems solid though.

This tranny is done. I'm not pouring any more money in this thing to try to fix the tranny. Going to sell the truck, or get a new transmission for it. Not safe to drive. I'm done. Thank you all for your help, and advice. Anyone want to buy a 2000 Dodge 5.2 with 94K miles? I put about $400 in this truck on the transmission issues, I'm stopping while I'm ahead (or behind).

 

Disconnect the 8 pin connector, and go for a drive. Keep in mind, there won't be ANY automatic function. You will HAVE to shift manually, up and down. If the trans goes into the gear you tell it to, when you tell it to, your electronics are bad. (or PCM.....) if it still acts weird, time for a rebuild/different trans.

 

I might try that later. One thing I did do, just out of curiosity, was that after I left the dump, (there is a big hill you go up and down), when I was going down (15-20mph), I tried shifting into 2nd and 1st. The truck only seemed to shift into 2nd gear (RPMs changed), but no change when went into 1st...granted, this is with that 8 pin connected, but not sure if this information would help you. It's going to rain again, so I might do what you suggest later when it's safer, and less cars on road.

 

Update:

So I took it out for a drive today, as suggested. I disconnected the 8-pin round connector to test it manually.

Like before, I have no 1st gear. I only have Park-Reverse-Neutral, Drive, and 2. Truck will roll to about 30mph, RPMs around 3K, and I notice if feels like what it did when it would lock in that gear and not able to have power or shift out like yesterday and race the RPMs. I also noticed @ 2nd gear 30-40MPH, that I have almost no power. The RPMS will race from 3-4.5K if I gas it, but I get no power/pull acceleration..it will just barely keep the truck at speed at high RPMs. If I shift into Drive, it shifts no problem, RPMs drop. Once I get to around 45-50mph, stays in Drive and not over-drive (I understand this because I should not get overdrive if the 8 pin is disconnected, so I understand that). At lower speeds up to 30mph, 2nd gear seems to work fine and "pull" up to speed, but after that I have to shift to Drive, because RPMs will race, and no real power after that. Should I still have acceleration/power in 2nd at 30-40MPH..that seems to be around the range for shifting, but in scenarios like passing/kickdown, I would think that even though down-shift in lower gear and RPMS go up, one should still have (for lack of better word) "gear-power"?

I do not have 1st gear. Only 2nd and Drive. To clarify, I did not have 1st gear before. If anything, driving this manually does eliminate the the stuck in 2nd/RPM racing, once I shift it into Drive.

* When I was doing the o2 sensor thing couple weeks ago, and had them disconnected, and waiting for the check engine light, and going for a drive, I think I was able to shift into 1st and 2nd, that was the only time, and it was for a brief moment before the CEL came on. But, generally speaking, I do not have 1st gear.

Hope this helps deduce what's going on.

 

If you are SURE didn't have 1st then you have a mechanical problem inside the trans not an electrical one. Which means it's time for a rebuild.

 

Yes, I can confirm, right now , I do not have 1st gear. I tried shifting to 1st from 2nd and drive, and I only get a "reaction".."rpm change" "gear" change" if I go into 2nd from drive (downshift). Or Drive from 2nd (upshift). If I shift into 1 from 2 or D, it acts like it is in 2nd gear. I tried flipping it from 2/1 1/2 and I only get rpm reaction if in 2nd (or from 2nd to drive) Going down a fairly steep hill, shift into 2nd, it downshifts rpms go up. If I go into 1st, no change, like its still in 2nd gear. It's been like this ever since I got the check engine light originally (last year).


* If I start out in "1" and shift into 2, no change. If I shift into Drive from 2, it will upshift = 2nd gear. no 1st.

** If I remember correctly, if I was starting off in "1"...then shift to 2....no change.....it would sound and act the same as if I was in "2" up to 30mph. shift to D, it would upshift. So if I was in "1" it was actually 2nd gear because going to 2 no change whatsoever. And the rpm/pull power feel from D to 2 and from "1" and "2" felt the same, so I'm pretty sure it was the same gear (2).

** I tried to replicate a auto downshift down, like when to pass a car. I downshifted from D to 2, floored it, and RPMs raced but no real forward acceleration...not quite neutral, but no power..kinda like (8-pin connected) when if going up a hill and it will shift down, but in my case the RPMs would race up but not propel car or..barely keep it at speed as the RPMs are around 4k. (30+MPH)

When I originally did the solenoid/transducer/tcc last year, for 2 weeks I had all gears and truck ran great.kickdown/passing, etc etc..no problem. I had 1st. 2nd. drive, overdrive, no problem.