Fuses: It's insurance. Not required, but, not a bad idea either. (I did not install fuses on mine.)

Where you draw power from is simply a matter of preference, just make sure that where you are getting power from, can handle the load. Maybe they though drawing power from the PDC post made for a 'cleaner' install. I just went to the battery.

 

Upside - The install was really easy. Definitely a plug-n-play installation that took me about 90 minutes from setting up tools to cleanup.

Downside - Tested the lights this afternoon with a 12 minute run around the neighborhood with the lights on. No problems other than I'm still feeling the top of the dash just above the switch feeling warm after about 7 minutes or so. This has not changed and I know I did the install correctly. If this is normal, then I'm okay with that, but if not, please advise, as I'm into this about $100 for the new switch, connector and relay harness, plus my time. I just don't want to lose my headlights again as it's not safe on these roads here in Upstate New York. They're dark, hilly and curvy and a good way to get killed if your lights go out late at night.

 

I never checked my dash to see how warm it got....... might want to check the grounds for the headlight switch, make sure they are good.

 

As per your mention of the switch grounds, not sure where they would be on the truck. I'll have to see if I can trace them off the old headlamp connectors. I can check the switch/connector hookup in the dash, but would again, need to check and see which wire is the ground. I know the "H" terminal in the switch is for the headlights, but I'll have to see which terminal is for the ground.

The grounds for the relay harness look good. I placed the ground wires where there were other wires grounded and wire brushed any rust off before installing the additional ground for the lights. But if the ground wasn't good, I would assume the lights wouldn't work, not heat up the switch. At least that is the problem I had on another vehicle with my taillights not working and I had a bad ground.

Anyone out there that installed the relay harness, if you run your truck at night for 15 minutes or more, please just feel your dash to see it it is warmer just over the switch where the dash meets the bezel. I would appreciate it and I'm sure this would help others. If no one else's dash is warmer in that spot, I got a problem I need to hunt down. If that spot is warmer than the rest of the dash, then I can sit back and relax a little.

The dash feels as warm as it did before I installed the relay harness, which is my concern. It shouldn't feel warm at all according to someone else's post.

All-in -all, I really appreciate everyone's input ...

NOTE: Just found this on the switch connector and not sure where the ground wire connects to the switch in the dash - or is the switch ground someplace else down line?

 

IF you don't have a service manual for your truck yet, grab one from here. Wiring diagrams are in section 8W.

 

Thank you - downloaded it and will review the wiring.

I also just ordered a Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun and will be testing the switch to actually see how hot it is getting. That may give me a clue on whether or not I need to worry about another meltdown.

 

I have the factory wiring (no harness) and driving with my HIDs on for over 4 hrs my dash didn't get warm. I wouldn't be too alarmed if I was you

 

So I finally received my "Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun" (now that's a long name) and removed the bezel (again) to pull the switch. I left it connected and hanging while the truck was running and the lights were on for about 20 minutes. After checking it with the Infrared Thermometer, the only part on the switch that got hot was the metal rotating part (as per the picture). The heat ranged between ~109-135 degrees depending on how long the lights were on. The rest of the switch (black plastic parts) and the surrounding metal didn't warm up at all.

The wiring and the connector didn't get warm either. I should have pulled the connector off to check terminal "H", which is the headlight terminal, but decided not to do that. I wish I did since the dash was already apart, but I didn't.

Note: The picture below is the old part I originally replaced, which is why it looks rusty. The actual test was done on the newly installed switch.

Anyway, I think I'm more comfortable now knowing that the wiring, connector and the switch upper parts are not getting hot, as those were the parts that burnt and melted down. So with that said, I'm good to go.

A big thank you to all who participated and gave their input. Hopefully this will help someone else having the same problem and concerns that I did.

 

Yeah, I do believe there is a variable resistor in there, so, not surprising it gets a touch warm.

 

So in looking at other sites, I'm seeing this same problem everywhere, which we already know. But, a couple guys did mentioned that the headlight switch can run hot if you run your dash lights dim while your headlights are on. Many were saying that bright dash lights on pitch black roads at night caused them eye strain, which is a problem I have also. I run my dash lights as dim as possible at night.

So as an experiment, I did my normal 15 minute run at night with my headlights on and in the past, the dash above the headlight switch got warm, as I've mentioned in the past. This time, I drove with my dash lights bright instead of normally having them dim and after the test drive, the top of the dash did not warm up at all. So I'm convinced that the headlight switch works the same as a dimmer switch in a house, whereas when you dim the lights, the dimmer switch does get hotter.

So with that said, if anyone feels their dash above the headlight switch getting warm, turn up your dash lights and that should help. At least it did with me.