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50 Amp Battery Fuse - Parasitic Draw

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Old Oct 5, 2019 | 09:38 PM
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Default 50 Amp Battery Fuse - Parasitic Draw

Truck is a 2001 Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel with dual batteries. *** RESOLVED*** see last page for details.

Problem is parasitic draw. I know the draw comes from the 50 Amp Battery Fuse, but I am stuck on further diagnostics.

I have quick batter disconnects on both batteries. With the disconnects out, so there the batteries are not hooked up... on the battery in front of the drivers side, I attached a volt meter to the negative cable and to the top of the battery post. The reading was .27 amps. (connected to 10 amp and common). I pulled every switch in the dash (drivers side dash) and nothing changed. I then pulled all the fuses in the engine compartment. When I pulled the 50 Amp Battery the draw stopped and it went to .01. See attached pictures. So I removed every thing that was tied to the + terminal of the battery, and left the fuse in, it still showed .27 draw. The 50 Amp Battery was the last fuse I pulled.

So looking at the pictures its just a wire to the + terminal. Draw cant be a fuse, and I wouldn't think a bad cable would cause that, I think its a #8 wire? I just bought the truck a few days ago, knowing it had a parasitic draw... Normally these arent that hard to find as its an accessory, but this has me stumped. This is my first Dodge/diesel.




 

Last edited by KSchmeits8629; Oct 6, 2019 at 07:24 PM. Reason: Updated to resolved
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 02:50 AM
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That fuse powers the "junction block" a.k.a. fuse panel at the end of the dash. Just start pulling fuses there.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 11:26 AM
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Default No fuses



So screenshot with no fuses. Still setting at .27ish on the meter. ​​​​​​
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 12:21 PM
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following the wiring PDF and it looks like first stop is key. Going to start tracing and unpluging. Any suggestions are welcom.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 01:04 PM
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Just start pulling fuses from the fuse block. See where the draw falls off. That will tell you where the problem is..
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by KSchmeits8629
following the wiring PDF and it looks like first stop is key. Going to start tracing and unpluging. Any suggestions are welcom.
No. The fuse you pulled is fuse 1 not the other 50A fuse (10) which goes to the ignition switch.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 02:32 PM
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Removed all fuses. Multimeter still shows .27.

adding screen shot of all fuses removed. Still .27 in multimeter.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 03:16 PM
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The feed from the PDC powers fuses 1,4,12,13,14 and the circuit breaker 2. You still have fuse 12 in there (the black one) and the circuit breaker (the right one).
 
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 04:06 PM
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Ok, 1) how did you know that fuse #1 outside affected the 5 you listed?

2) You were right, the black IOD was the culprit!

Looks like I need to start looking at the following...

There are a few things that are connected to the I.O.D. fuse:
Left Visor/Vanity Lamp
Right Visor/Vanity Lamp
Underhood Lamp
Radio
Glove Box Lamp
Power Mirror
Dome Lamp
Cargo Lamp #1
Cargo Lamp #2
DLC Connector (need this to retrieve codes)
Map lights
 

Last edited by KSchmeits8629; Oct 6, 2019 at 04:11 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2019 | 04:24 PM
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Default Current Config

Attached is my current configuration with both batteries. My question is now does the dome light have power when both negatives of the batteries are disconnected? This light I think is from a Dodge Sport package? My nephew installed it prior to me buying the truck.

Drivers Side Battery Hookup

Passengers side battery

how is dome light on when no connections to battery? Also, this is from a dodge ram sport I think?
 
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