@HeyYou So, AFAIK I can make an attempt to tighten the spindle nut and see if there's an issue there. But as far as I'm concerned, do you think I could just go ahead and replace the bearings & control arms? Everything else (Ball joints, shocks, outer/inner tie rods. etc.) have been replaced, so if this could fix it, I'm tempted to just do both lmao. TBH I'd be taking apart the wheel well anyways to replace the bearings- so why not?

And yes. They are unit bearings. The outer races of the wheel bearing are integrated with the rotor. I have to take the spindle nut off to take the rotor & outer wheel hub off.

 

Those are replaceable bearings. Unit bearings are exactly that, you replace the entire hub/bearing assembly. Rotors are separate. Tightening the spindle nut won't make any difference there. (unless it is loose, in which case, replace the bearings anyway...... )

Check the bushings on the control arms. If you don't like what you see, replace them, or, the whole control arm, whichever is easiest/cheapest.

 

SKF BR3 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Front Outer; RWD





$8.53

SKF BR5 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Front Inner; RWD



$8.61

You should have this style bearing and race. If they aren't damaged, you can tighten them. SKF 19784 is the wheel seal $1.79. Tighten the nut until it just starts to tighten and leave it. If you put new bearings and races in, you need to torque the nut while spinning the hub to seat the races. I can't remember what that torque spec is. Then loosen the nut and tighten the bearing again. Basically just a hair more than finger tight.


ACDELCO 45G9162 {#88912733} Professional Info
Front Lower RWD




$19.87
ACDELCO 45G8071 {#88912575} Professional Info
Front Upper; RWD



$7.82

I'd replace the bushings, AC Delco control arms are $125 for the upper and $165 for the lower. Would've been OK if you hadn't already replaced the ball joints.