Bad Negative Camber, what to do?
#1
Bad Negative Camber, what to do?
Hello RAM drivers alike! I've got some quarrels with my Ram 1500. It's got horrible negative camber, and quite bad steering slop. So far, I've replaced the following to try to remedy this:
-Lower/Upper Ball joints on both sides
-Outer tie rods on both sides, inner tie rod on Driver side (Note, I have Pitman/Idler arm steering. 2WD)
-All 4 shocks aswell on the truck.
So, here's my issue. I don't know where to look next for camber. I've been told to get it aligned- but when I do I'm told that I simply need an entirely new front end and they can't do an alignment until everything is new, or that they can't do it because it's too old. Where should I look next? I'm wearing down tires and honestly I feel extremely defeated that I'm still messing with this stupid camber almost 3 years fighting this truck.
Upon asking shops their solution is to simply replace everything and have an alignment done after, but as I've been shown even replacing exactly what they say they need fixed isn't enough.
I'm thinking possibly checking my wheel hub nut and seeing if it's loose? I heard that it can contribute to negative camber if it's loose on the spindle.
Some more information for you guys, there's a overall in-spec tow which has the truck pull to the right, the left tire is towed right as is the right tire, and the camber is out of whack.
What say y'all?
-Lower/Upper Ball joints on both sides
-Outer tie rods on both sides, inner tie rod on Driver side (Note, I have Pitman/Idler arm steering. 2WD)
-All 4 shocks aswell on the truck.
So, here's my issue. I don't know where to look next for camber. I've been told to get it aligned- but when I do I'm told that I simply need an entirely new front end and they can't do an alignment until everything is new, or that they can't do it because it's too old. Where should I look next? I'm wearing down tires and honestly I feel extremely defeated that I'm still messing with this stupid camber almost 3 years fighting this truck.
Upon asking shops their solution is to simply replace everything and have an alignment done after, but as I've been shown even replacing exactly what they say they need fixed isn't enough.
I'm thinking possibly checking my wheel hub nut and seeing if it's loose? I heard that it can contribute to negative camber if it's loose on the spindle.
Some more information for you guys, there's a overall in-spec tow which has the truck pull to the right, the left tire is towed right as is the right tire, and the camber is out of whack.
What say y'all?
#2
#3
Truck year is 1998, I was told that there was the tiniest bit of front wheel bearing play when I went to get it inspected, though the guy told me it isn't a huge issue. Though now I'm looking at everything, it probably is part of the problem. If it makes any sense, I have the bearings where the rotor and wheel bearing are one unit.
Control Arm Bushings are probably shot, 126 thousand miles in Illinois weather has them looking pretty rough. I was looking at those next, It's just I know there's a certain way you have to remove/install. Not to mention I've always been afraid of decompressing my springs, do you think those could be next?
In addition, yes. Wearing on inside of tires bad. Worse on the left than on the right.
Control Arm Bushings are probably shot, 126 thousand miles in Illinois weather has them looking pretty rough. I was looking at those next, It's just I know there's a certain way you have to remove/install. Not to mention I've always been afraid of decompressing my springs, do you think those could be next?
In addition, yes. Wearing on inside of tires bad. Worse on the left than on the right.
#4
Jack up the front, and wiggle the tires. See how much play you have there. Basically, any play at all in the bearings means they are bad. (but, they usually growl as well.....)
How is camber adjusted on yours? (My desktop that had the service manuals on it died, I am waiting for parts to resurrect it......) A pic of the front suspension would be good.
How is camber adjusted on yours? (My desktop that had the service manuals on it died, I am waiting for parts to resurrect it......) A pic of the front suspension would be good.
#5
The play that is present there, is all steering play (Which I'm trying to replace as the cash flow comes in), and the up and down play is minimal. Should I go to replacing bearings then?
As far as camber goes- I'm not sure. I wasn't aware there was a way to do that. Most likely through the upper control arm bolts. I'll check and take a picture for ya )
As far as camber goes- I'm not sure. I wasn't aware there was a way to do that. Most likely through the upper control arm bolts. I'll check and take a picture for ya )
#6
You can't align a vehicle with loose wheel bearings. Think about it. If it has play, it can and does move. So, where you did your measurements will change as you're driving, because the loose bearing let's the tire toe in and out while you're driving. The camber will also change as you're hitting bumps. Radial tires are fairly tolerant to camber being off a little. If you have A arms, I think camber is adjusted with shims between the frame and the mounting points of the A arm. If you have worn components, they are correct that it can't be aligned. As soon as you move the truck, the worn parts will allow movement and the alignment will be off.
#7
You can't align a vehicle with loose wheel bearings. Think about it. If it has play, it can and does move. So, where you did your measurements will change as you're driving, because the loose bearing let's the tire toe in and out while you're driving. The camber will also change as you're hitting bumps. Radial tires are fairly tolerant to camber being off a little. If you have A arms, I think camber is adjusted with shims between the frame and the mounting points of the A arm. If you have worn components, they are correct that it can't be aligned. As soon as you move the truck, the worn parts will allow movement and the alignment will be off.
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