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5.9 magnum timing chain

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  #11  
Old 01-12-2020, 07:30 PM
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Well, if he moved the distributor, the fuel sync is out of whack now.
 
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2020, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan12
Thanks for reading..OK lots of fuel & spark , Timing small dots lined ☝ It well run totally redarded then advance distributor..My question is with camshaft gear at 12 o'clock and crankshaft at 6 o'clock (after spinning engine) the rotor is at # 1 ?? I thought it should be at # 6 could the cam have turned 180% with old sloppy chain and can I pull distributor and have rotor position at # 6 TDC. THE OLD MAN DOWN THE ROAD....
The crank turns twice to one turn of the cam. If the crank is at 6 o'clock (pointed down)and the cam at 12 (straight up) you are off a 1/4 turn. If you turn the crank a 1/2 turn to get the mark on top (12 o'clock) the cam will move half as much and only be at 3 o'clock .

The crank can never be at 6 o'clock when the cam is at 12 o'clock. The crank should be at 12 o'clock when the cam is at 12 o'clock and also when the cam is at 6 o'clock.
 
Last edited by 2bit; 01-12-2020 at 07:41 PM.
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2020, 10:13 PM
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Default Timing Chain 5.9 magnum 2000 ram

Cam 6 o'clock. Crank 12 0' clock. Old Chain was in b a d shape. When in this postion rotor at #1. If I turn over engine so cam is at 12 0'clock. Crankshaft is at 12 0' Clock rotlor is at # 6.. HARD TO SEE. DOTS ON GEARS I PUT WHITE CHALK TO TRY TO SHOW!! CAM-6. CRANKSHAFT - 12. THANKS
 
Last edited by Dan12; 01-13-2020 at 12:19 AM.
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  #14  
Old 01-13-2020, 06:07 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yep, and the distributor rotor should be point at number 6, with the dots aligned that way. Don't really need the straight edge, you are limited in how far off you can be by the chain in any event. (another reason I prefer the double roller timing sets.)

Using a straight edge is a double check I've done for 50+ years. There are a lot of things I do that I don't really NEED to do but do just to make sure. Like drilling a 1/64 hole in thermostat units if they don't have a jiggle valve. 99.9% of the time, it's not needed. They usually don't take long and that 0.01 % of the time I catch a mistake before I button everything up.
 
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2020, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
Using a straight edge is a double check I've done for 50+ years. There are a lot of things I do that I don't really NEED to do but do just to make sure. Like drilling a 1/64 hole in thermostat units if they don't have a jiggle valve. 99.9% of the time, it's not needed. They usually don't take long and that 0.01 % of the time I catch a mistake before I button everything up.
I see absolutely nothing wrong with being thorough.
 
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2020, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
With the dots at 6 (Cam) and 12 (crank) #6 cylinder is actually in firing position. So it seems your timing is set correctly. What are you not getting? Spark or fuel?
Originally Posted by HeyYou
When BOTH are at 12 o'clock, #1 is in firing position. Did I type it wrong previously? (goes to look, nope. I typed it right. )
Originally Posted by Dan12

Cam 6 o'clock. Crank 12 0' clock. Old Chain was in b a d shape. When in this postion rotor at #1. If I turn over engine so cam is at 12 0'clock. Crankshaft is at 12 0' Clock rotlor is at # 6.. HARD TO SEE. DOTS ON GEARS I PUT WHITE CHALK TO TRY TO SHOW!! CAM-6. CRANKSHAFT - 12. THANKS
I believe you're a half turn off. Take the timing chain off, use the gear to spin the cam 1/2 a turn, reinstall the timing chain. Use the timing marks on the balancer to be at 0 degrees with the distributor on #1. There is a notch on the distributor housing that needs to line up with the rotor. This will get the fuel sync close enough to run. You'll need a good scanner to set fuel sync once it's running, or take it to a shop. There is a picture of the notch in the distributor somewhere on here. If I can find it, I'll post it.
 
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Old 01-13-2020, 04:00 PM
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I'm not sure if any of the valves will hit when you do that. If it stops, don't force it. You may have to loosen all of the rocker arms. Any of you other guys know?
 
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Old 01-13-2020, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2bit
I'm not sure if any of the valves will hit when you do that. If it stops, don't force it. You may have to loosen all of the rocker arms. Any of you other guys know?
I think the first gen Magnums are NOT interference engines. (3.9, 5.2, 5.9) The second gen Magnums ARE interference engines.
 
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Old 01-13-2020, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
I think the first gen Magnums are NOT interference engines. (3.9, 5.2, 5.9) The second gen Magnums ARE interference engines.
What are the year ranges for the generations?
 
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Old 01-14-2020, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
What are the year ranges for the generations?

I'm not sure. I just go by the last number. If it ends with a 9, first generation. If it ends with a 7, second gen. The 5.2 is an oddball first gen.
 
Last edited by ol' grouch; 01-14-2020 at 06:09 AM. Reason: i kant spel wurth a durn.
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