So today I went in and started to remove drive shaft and everything I had the rear shaft off and I for some reason started the truck I tried to start the track at least and it would not start while it was in park I had to take it down to reverse that told me it was neutral safety switch so I went in replace neutral safety switch first time around I didn't give the computer time to reset and still wanted to start in Reverse I took terminals off tied them together for about 3 hours overload capacitors and wipe everything out and put everything back in and turn the ignition and let it sit for about 5 minutes and then truned the ignition over and it started in park but this time around I ended up hearing a real bad rattle class popping and grinding scraping sound coming from the transfer case I mean I could feel it through the floorboard right under my feet so I shut it down I was going to open it up but I couldn't even get the Caps open to check the fluid levels but alone drain and refill it what should I do

 

So even though they're both 4x4 both 5.9L and both having the Nv231 dhd transfer cases?and both 1500 it won't match just because of the 46RE and the 46RH I'm still a little confused about that but I'm not a true transmission guy I am more engines in rebuilding those in doing body work

 

46RH the "H" stand for hydraulic. There is no electronics except for OD and TCC

46RE "E" stands for electronic. Every gear (even OD and TCC) uses electronics to shift.

 

[QUOTE=MoparFanatic21;3474436]46RH the "H" stand for hydraulic. There is no electronics except for OD and TCC

46RE "E" stands for electronic. Every gear (even OD and TCC) uses

So here is a continuing update. So earlier tonight after I did the neutral safety switch I went through Tighten the first band clutch I recheck the linkage I went up and turn everything on to see if anything changed or not there was no change except for the engine light for trouble code P1763 it was the governor pressure voltage High. I shut the truck off Banded battery terminal connectors together to flush out any extra electricity through the capacitors out of the truck would have to relearn the new sensor. Waited 3hr hooked up battery let it relearn removed P1763 code then started the truck and they 2nd II codes popped up is P0753 and the P0711 along with the P1763 and that's when I had started hearing the noises coming from the transfer case and I immediately shut everything off and was able to get no further because the case would not let go see drain plugs

P1763 GOV. PRESSURE VOLTAGE HIGH.

P0753 Shift solenoid trouble code.

P0711 trans fluid temp fault code.

 

P0753 Trans 3-4 Shift Solenoid/Trans Relay Circuits
P0711 Trans Temp Sensor, No Temp Rise After Start
P1763 Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too High
Never mind the plugs, the noises are probably because the shifter is broke. Fix that and get the tc in neutral. If you didn't have the other two codes before it's probably something you did when changing the sensor.

 

Here's another update on the transmission situation checking the codes again and going into the transfer case today the transfer case was bone dry on fluid so I filled that up and it stopped a Rattle and banging and grinding got in there and check the other band for the reverse Servo and holy**** it was completely loose and there was tons of play I'm getting ready to go back to the house and pull the governor solenoid and sensor out of the cleaning solution and stick it back in after blowing them out and I will give you guys a further update on the results after that any advice before things get going

 

So I've cleaned and reinstalled and tightened the other bands and there is still noughting movement wise happening I can feel transmission trying to engage but noughting happens also I did a maintenance history check on the truck and I found the prior owner had a flush done at 210k so now I'm looking at an entire system tear down and cleaning unless yall got any other ideas

 

Unplug the 8 pin connector, and see if anything different happens. (aside from setting a bunch more codes.....) You won't have any automatic function though. If it still doesn't want to move, and you are sure the t-case isn't in neutral...... time for a rebuild.

The flush at 210K was really a bad idea..... Unless he had been doing it every 30K miles or so.

 

This is the trucks maintenance history check I ran and what should be expected from the 8 pin being unplugged keep in mind I'm not very transmission savy.thanks again hey you


2000 dodge ram sport maintenance history check carfax

 

Yeah, that flush probably wasn't a good plan....... We wouldn't even consider doing that on a high mileage trans when I was working at the dealership. If the customer insisted, we would warn them before we touched it that it was quite likely to make their trans stop working altogether, and if it did, THEY would get to pay for the rebuild....

Unplugging the 8 pin connector disables the electronics. Hence, no automatic function. It will tell you if the electronics are causing the trouble, or, if you still have issues, that's a mechanical problem, and it's likely rebuild time. Given the mileage on the trans, I would lean toward the latter. 200k on an auto trans is actually pretty good.....