Ok, just rebuilt Engine, transmission and TC on my 97 360 4x4 1500. all is hooked up and went to fire it up for the 1st time this morning and it won't start. I am getting code 25, IAC, but truly doubt that is the problem, been down this road before w/ that code and was something else.

What I'm curious about, is it possible to be 180 degree out on timing. what I mean, is that the cam sprocket has two timing marks on it 180 out and put the number 1 piston at TDC. below is pic of before I tore down and new sprockets. Note, that one of the marks has a cutout circle closer to the center of the sprocket and the other side mark does not. which alignment mark should be used? does it matter as long at the number 1 piston is at TDC, dizzy rotor pointing at number 1 or line on hall effect plate, and the cam/crank sprocket alignment marks are pointing at each other.

does this make sense? the cam sprocket can be on either alignment line to get everything looking right, however the cam will be 180 out. this is based on the key for the sprocket? I guess the big question is, where is the sprocket key supposed to be at when at the right stroke, 11 or 5 o'clock? You can't see the key's in these pics, you can only see the crank sprocket key which is at 1 o'clockish..

prior to tear down, note the cut out circle towards the top and the alignment mark just above it, 180 from what was setup. Note the line and the dot 180 from each other for alignment.

This is how I installed. NOte I used white paint on the timing marks on the sprocket, one is a dot, the other is a line. I used dot on crank and dot on cam sprockets, not the line on the cam sprocket because the FSM said use dot, but notice above original pic shows dot on crank and line on cam sprockets?

 

I do believe installing the gears dot to dot, puts number 6 in firing position. Why it happens that way is beyond me.

 

The dot and the line mark are 180 degrees apart so it doesn't matter which one you use. After one crankshaft revolution they line up the other way. "does it matter as long at the number 1 piston is at TDC" - no but it needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke. If you put the distributor in with cylinder 1 at TDC but the valves open it won't start.

 

Thanks, so basically, I can pull the distributor up, rotate the shaft 180 degrees, re-install it and should be good? thoughts?

 

Basically yes but i would turn the crank and make sure you are on tdc on the compression stroke on #1 cylinder. Keep in mind you need to set the fuel sync also.

 

Thanks Hey, that's what I planned on doing. Now to have a fun filled afternoon working on the Distributor "blind" as usual.. lol.. Will let you know how it goes!

 

Well, set Harmonic Balance to TDC, lifted dizzy, rotated rotor shaft 180, put rotor on, realized I hadn't even plugged in the AIS.. lmao.. anyhoo, it fired first try!!!! even rolled it back about 5ft and forward 5ft, so tranny works too. so was def out 180 degree's on the distributor! Now to finish topping off Tranny oil and coolant then final tune.

BT

trick to the fuel sync, what is it. she's runs' and idles, but not fer long, it stalls out. It'll start right back up though w/o any issue., but believe it's fuel sync that def needs set!

 

If the battery has been disconnected for a while, may just need to relearn idle.

 

Fuel sync needs to be set with a high end scanner

 

Fuel sync is overrated . It merely tells the PCM which set of 4 cylinders is going to need ignition and which half is going to need fuel injection during a crank rotation. It does not provide any timing for the fuel injectors, that is all derived from the crank position sensor. If it starts and runs fine, and doesn't have any stumbling at idle before it dies it's unlikely fuel sync is the issue. You can mark the current distributor position and ever so slightly (2-3 degrees) turn it in either direction to see if it makes a difference.