Pulsating vibration
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No way the ball joints aren't bad with that kinda movement. There's just no way it could move that much with 2 solid ball joints. He said he replaced the wheel hub, so that means the movement has to be coming from the knuckle.
Unless you're totally flat broke, just order 4 new Moog ball joints from Rockauto or Amazon and install all 4, they're around $50 each. You have to pull the axle shafts out to do either one, so doing the other one while you're there makes sense. If the other goes bad you'll have to redo most of the work, and pulling the axle shafts over and over increases your chance of damaging the axle seals, which are a pain to fix. You'll need to go rent a ball joint press and cup kit from the auto parts store, they're free to rent. You'll also need a big socket to fit it and either an impact wrench or a big breaker bar. You'll also need a big *** hammer and some patience, because doing ball joints can suck a bit.
I'm sure EricTheCarGuy and ChrisFix have solid videos on how to do ball joints, I'd suggest watching them.
And yeah, those tie rods might be a tad loose, but I wouldn't consider them bad. If they were your issue you'd get the vibration in the steering wheel, not the floorboard.
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From: Michigan
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From: Michigan
Well if you pulled that wheel off the truck and the vibration was identical to before, it's unlikely that it's the wheel balance either (unless it's coming from a different wheel than the one you removed).
I have changed ball joints on multiple vehicles (including 2 2nd gen rams) and I could always identify a failed ball joint very quickly and easily with the pry bar. There is a notable slop between the knuckle and the axle housing where the ball joint sits. The reason for this is that the ball joint has a tapered fit into the knuckle, so it's very very tightly on the knuckle. What they are observing by wiggling the post is the same thing we are observing by simply prying on the knuckle. The only situation in which the post could move independent of the knuckle would be one where the knuckle slid off the ball joint...which would require the nut have backed off...which would require the cotter key to have failed first...and you'd still be able to pry on the knuckle and see slop.
Wish I had more advice, without being able to see it with my eyes, I'm not sure what you've got going on.
Edit: You said you replaced the passenger side front axle u joint, did you pry on the driver side to check it?
I have changed ball joints on multiple vehicles (including 2 2nd gen rams) and I could always identify a failed ball joint very quickly and easily with the pry bar. There is a notable slop between the knuckle and the axle housing where the ball joint sits. The reason for this is that the ball joint has a tapered fit into the knuckle, so it's very very tightly on the knuckle. What they are observing by wiggling the post is the same thing we are observing by simply prying on the knuckle. The only situation in which the post could move independent of the knuckle would be one where the knuckle slid off the ball joint...which would require the nut have backed off...which would require the cotter key to have failed first...and you'd still be able to pry on the knuckle and see slop.
Wish I had more advice, without being able to see it with my eyes, I'm not sure what you've got going on.
Edit: You said you replaced the passenger side front axle u joint, did you pry on the driver side to check it?
yea check the video that sucker looks shot to me.
yea ordering them now luckily I’ve bought an impact when I replaced the wheel hub the other day
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Have you checked that other U-joint? Perfect time to replace it too if it's loose.
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yea it’s rock solid ZERO wiggle but since they are so cheap I’m going to buy a new spicer anyway and probably swap it out when I do the other ball joint. Might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone ya know?
ill update here as soon as it’s fixed should only be a couple days to get the new parts in the mail
thank you all so much for the help it’s such a relief to find the culprit
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yea it’s rock solid ZERO wiggle but since they are so cheap I’m going to buy a new spicer anyway and probably swap it out when I do the other ball joint. Might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone ya know?
ill update here as soon as it’s fixed should only be a couple days to get the new parts in the mail
thank you all so much for the help it’s such a relief to find the culprit
ill update here as soon as it’s fixed should only be a couple days to get the new parts in the mail
thank you all so much for the help it’s such a relief to find the culprit
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considering my wheel bearing and ujoint were also shot plus this I can only imagine what a shop (or even worse) a stealership would have charged me. LoL
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For 4 ball joints, 2 tie rods, and a wheel bearing...probably like 5 grand or something stupid, and they would have used el cheapo parts too.
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I can only imagine. I think just for giggles I’ll call one and ask. I’m curious how much money I saved myself.
