Manual trans question
#11
I have not removed the check valve, however I have not looked to see if the trans shop that did the previous work removed it or not. I will see if I can get under it today and take a look. I had planned to check for flow to the cooler first, but have allowed my frustration to get out ahead of me thus far...
Would you recommend removing the check valve (even if it is not blocked)?
Thanks for your patience in helping me thru this! I am trying to fight the urge to fix this with money/newer truck, since fixing this beast is still likely me cheapest and best option...
Would you recommend removing the check valve (even if it is not blocked)?
Thanks for your patience in helping me thru this! I am trying to fight the urge to fix this with money/newer truck, since fixing this beast is still likely me cheapest and best option...
#12
I have not removed the check valve, however I have not looked to see if the trans shop that did the previous work removed it or not. I will see if I can get under it today and take a look. I had planned to check for flow to the cooler first, but have allowed my frustration to get out ahead of me thus far...
Would you recommend removing the check valve (even if it is not blocked)?
Thanks for your patience in helping me thru this! I am trying to fight the urge to fix this with money/newer truck, since fixing this beast is still likely me cheapest and best option...
Would you recommend removing the check valve (even if it is not blocked)?
Thanks for your patience in helping me thru this! I am trying to fight the urge to fix this with money/newer truck, since fixing this beast is still likely me cheapest and best option...
#13
The check valve was designed to prevent converter drain-back when the truck was off. Dodge did it that way because from the factory, the torque converter isn't charged in park. (which is why you need to check fluid level in neutral....) Most folks, when they do a rebuild, change that. It's a pretty minor modification to the valve body, and the check valve is no longer needed, plus, you can check your fluid level in park. Given that the worst symptom of NOT having the check valve in there, is a delayed shift into reverse/drive at first start of the day, I routinely removed them, or drill them out, or replace that section of line, with some line rated for trans fluid, and a couple clamps.
#14
The check valve was designed to prevent converter drain-back when the truck was off. Dodge did it that way because from the factory, the torque converter isn't charged in park. (which is why you need to check fluid level in neutral....) Most folks, when they do a rebuild, change that. It's a pretty minor modification to the valve body, and the check valve is no longer needed, plus, you can check your fluid level in park. Given that the worst symptom of NOT having the check valve in there, is a delayed shift into reverse/drive at first start of the day, I routinely removed them, or drill them out, or replace that section of line, with some line rated for trans fluid, and a couple clamps.
#15
#17
Nope. Unscrewed the check valve on one end, pushed the flare nut back, pushed the line on, and double clamped it. On the other end its a quick-connect, so, release that, pushed the hose over the wrinkle the quick connect uses to latch, and double clamped that side as well. Less than 5 bucks in parts. I think it took me 15 minutes total to do. (aside from the trip into town for the parts..... that was likely 45 minutes. )