I don't think he determined that, He keeps trying to figure when the bulbs are out it won't run. Bulbs and multi function switch have nothing to do with ignition or fuel. I believe the asd relay is working and so is the fuel pump relay. If the pump is actually putting out is the question. Correct me if i'm wrong. I would start over because now everybody is lost with 88 posts. Do this...
1 check if you have spark(when cranking) from the coil wire.
2 Need to see what the fuel pressure is and if the pump is actually priming the system.

 

its very hard to do this with just me there is no one to help me.. as i live in the middle of no where basiclly and if i had a heart attack no one would ever notice

2nd i i didnt try figuring the bulbs anymore, i did what was asked test the grounds at the bulbs.and other grounds for resistaance voltage drop... Heyyou asks what "what is missing that causes the no start" so i stated pulling either bulb in the back kills the engine.. or pulling out the multfunction switch
3.. i said i was going to unhook the connector in the fender so that wire harness was disconnected and just jump the fuel pump power and ground to eliminate that that wire harness is bad or if its good
4.. already stated No fuel pressure when mulitfunction switch is unplug.. there is fuel pressure when the mulitifunction switch is plugged in.. can not give you a reading stated my tester is missing the pressing point in the tool so cant get pressure. so the screw driver test is the only way
5.. i stated with or without the mulifunction switch plugged in.. i get 12 volts to the fuel pump... but.. l said if i plug the multifunction switch in and fuel pump in. you hear the Thud of the fuel pump shutting off.. but if the mulitfunction switch isnt plugged in there is no sound from the pump

6.. ill have to rewire the starter i guess. so i can start the truck from the engine compartment so i can see a spark.. ill do that in a bit then

 

If you aren't getting fuel with that switch unplugged, I seem to recall you tested that circuit, with the MF switch in/out, and the light came on?

 

i tested the circuit if you mean
if if the Fuel Pump Relay Kicks in.. then yes
with Multifunction switch in or Out.. the Fuel Pump relay clicks
without the multifunction switch in.. no pressure at the rail
with the mulifunction switch in.. i get like 1" high pressure squirt

tested for spark. by just spraying starter fluid in the intake. and tried to start no firing
i did mention i swapped out the computer as its same truck minus bcm is different no power locks etc

but it gave the same issues...

thats why i thinkin some how the munfunction switch is reversing a kill switch on a lawn mower.. where it grounds out the coil..

i didnt test but ill do this after.. if the truck is running try hazards turn wiper motor to see if it that will cause it to kill it

 

so testing mulitfunction switch
with truck not running.. Sprayer works. (dont have wiper motor plugged in so didnt test),, Left and Right turn and Hazards work fine

but
when truck is running
(didnt notice for sprayer)
but Left or Right Tailight blink fast like a bulb is burned out
Hazard lights got slower then normal.. and the hazard light dash stays dim when it flashes to the OFF postion.. so goes Bright to Dim Bright to Dim.. not Bright to Off, Bright to Off
but goes very slow
but when you shut truck off or it dies on its own.. Hazards go back to to the proper speed and the Briight to Off and the turn signals go back to normal speed from very fast


oh and the engine never starts ok.. starts rough dying shaking running at 300 rpm then builds but will run once its semi warmed up

 

could it be the dash cluster its one thing i havent swapped out.. swapped out pretty much everything else

 

No, the cluster is after where the problem is. For whatever reason, some circuits are grounding thru your lights.

Do you get power to the coil when the MF switch is unplugged?

 

i dunno how to test that yet... all i know is spraying starter fluid in the intake does not make it fire when the MF switch is unplugged

i try and check with the mulitmeter.. and ill get back to you should i also be getting 12 volts

 

Yes, but, only for about three seconds.

 

so battery has 12 volts

i unhooked the coil and put the probs in the 2 wire contacts

when MF switched plugged in or not
i get current when i turn key to run about 10 volts
when i crank i get 8 volts and it spiked to 9 volts but stayed around 8-9volts cranking more then 5 seconds.. and that was for both MF plugged in and un pluged

when i cranked with probe in greenbrown wire and other to truck frame ground i got
12 volts when i turned the key to on
and when i cranked i got 8-9 volts also with and without the MF switch plugged in