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So I ordered the TCP shroud and an going to fix it with two Flex A Lite fans that flow 5000 CFM combined (thanks to DerTruck I think for the info). I am going to use a sensor that screws into an adapter on the radiator hose. I have a few questions though.
My brain isn't working how does the stock 360 couldn't system flow?
What controller is best to be able to come on 100% when the AC is on.
Best temp sensor to use?
Lastly (most important) I tow 15,000lbs a few times a year. So you think this setup will work?
I noticed today that in hot weather when sitting in traffic the AC wasn't as cold and I am looking to free up the 10-15 RWHP. Also HeyYou there should be no typos as I proof read it
Considering there are a host of vehicles on the road, with electric fans, that tow every day, I don't see the issue. The engine gets warm to X temp, the fans come on, the engine cools off, the fans go off. Nothing could be easier.
Considering there are a host of vehicles on the road, with electric fans, that tow every day, I don't see the issue. The engine gets warm to X temp, the fans come on, the engine cools off, the fans go off. Nothing could be easier.
Apparently every form says that electric fans don't follow as much air as the mechanical fan. I've seen some people claim when the fan is locked 25,000 CFM
Strangely enough, I can't find ANYTHING on flow rates for mechanical fans in an automotive application..... I can find all sorts of stuff about cooling system efficiency, design, and the math behind it...... and as it turns out, it isn't flow volume that is the key factor here, but flow velocity through the radiator. Griffin radiator seems to think something to the tune of 2300 CFM is adequate to the task for *most* applications...... So, I am thinkin' that with 5000 CFM, you shouldn't have a problem.
There was a member on here a few years back that used a nice custom made shroud, with two fans, and he had zero problems with overheating on his truck. I don't remember the members name though.... Search might turn him up..... Don't know if he is still active or not.
I have a twin fan setup (~2,000CFM ea) and whilst not used for towing it is more than capable of dealing with hot humid conditions, A/C at max, in traffic jams (no airflow from forward movement)... and even with one fan disabled it only runs maybe a needle width higher on the temp gauge in those conditions.
I run a 180 thermostat, so the needle width high is probably putting me back to stock temperature.
From my perspective, two fans gives me redundancy and is not a must for efficiency.
If you have an issue with 5,000cfm I’m thinking you have other shortcomings in the system.
I always had a problem with mine. I believe it all started when the dealer i bought it from decided to put in stop leak instead of replacing the leaking freeze plugs. Well after replacing the heater core(twice) and the radiator (more than twice) it would still creep up past 200 on hot days. New hd fan clutch and extra blade/s (mechanical) fan available from flexalite it was a little better but still not enough. Bought a universal duel fan like this one that mounts right up to the radiator surface. I made a custom mount so i could still use the factory mechanical fan and shroud. There is about a 5 inch space at the bottom and the top that the electric fan shroud doesn't cover. The universal kit also came with a adjustable fan controller. You need to place the sensor inside the upper radiator hose( this is the hot engine coolant going into the rad). For the most part this solved the high temps. Fast forward until the rad sprang a leak and i got a free replacement from radiator.com. What i found was the radiator i had in it didn't have as many cooling tubes as the replacement. After i put the replacement in it did cool better. Still not sure of the stock rad tube count because the rad on my Indy was replaced also. If anyone has a original radiator i would appreciate it if you could count the cooling tubes. This is something you need to watch out for when replacing the radiator. As far as the electric vs mechanical fans all my turbo 4 cylinder cars have only electric fans. As long as you can get the correct amount of cfm you won't have a problem. If anyone has one of these you can tell what the stock setup flows.
Edit: Also forgot to mention the fan controller has an input for when the ac is on it will power up the fan.
Last edited by Moparite; Nov 15, 2020 at 10:55 AM.
Strangely enough, I can't find ANYTHING on flow rates for mechanical fans in an automotive application..... I can find all sorts of stuff about cooling system efficiency, design, and the math behind it...... and as it turns out, it isn't flow volume that is the key factor here, but flow velocity through the radiator. Griffin radiator seems to think something to the tune of 2300 CFM is adequate to the task for *most* applications...... So, I am thinkin' that with 5000 CFM, you shouldn't have a problem.
There was a member on here a few years back that used a nice custom made shroud, with two fans, and he had zero problems with overheating on his truck. I don't remember the members name though.... Search might turn him up..... Don't know if he is still active or not.
That's good to know! Do you have a diagram of the coolant flow? I always am going to add a heater bypass valve for summer, might help with better AC.
Originally Posted by Spillage
I have a twin fan setup (~2,000CFM ea) and whilst not used for towing it is more than capable of dealing with hot humid conditions, A/C at max, in traffic jams (no airflow from forward movement)... and even with one fan disabled it only runs maybe a needle width higher on the temp gauge in those conditions.
I run a 180 thermostat, so the needle width high is probably putting me back to stock temperature.
From my perspective, two fans gives me redundancy and is not a must for efficiency.
If you have an issue with 5,000cfm I’m thinking you have other shortcomings in the system.
It cools really good now just have to figure out why I have crappy heat at a standstill. Didn't you have a coolant diagram?
Originally Posted by Moparite
I always had a problem with mine. I believe it all started when the dealer i bought it from decided to put in stop leak instead of replacing the leaking freeze plugs. Well after replacing the heater core(twice) and the radiator (more than twice) it would still creep up past 200 on hot days. New hd fan clutch and extra blade/s (mechanical) fan available from flexalite it was a little better but still not enough. Bought a universal duel fan like this one that mounts right up to the radiator surface. I made a custom mount so i could still use the factory mechanical fan and shroud. There is about a 5 inch space at the bottom and the top that the electric fan shroud doesn't cover. The universal kit also came with a adjustable fan controller. You need to place the sensor inside the upper radiator hose( this is the hot engine coolant going into the rad). For the most part this solved the high temps. Fast forward until the rad sprang a leak and i got a free replacement from radiator.com. What i found was the radiator i had in it didn't have as many cooling tubes as the replacement. After i put the replacement in it did cool better. Still not sure of the stock rad tube count because the rad on my Indy was replaced also. If anyone has a original radiator i would appreciate it if you could count the cooling tubes. This is something you need to watch out for when replacing the radiator. As far as the electric vs mechanical fans all my turbo 4 cylinder cars have only electric fans. As long as you can get the correct amount of cfm you won't have a problem. If anyone has one of these you can tell what the stock setup flows.
Edit: Also forgot to mention the fan controller has an input for when the ac is on it will power up the fan.
Dang that's why I hate aftermarket. I upgraded to a 3 core aluminum rad from Wizard Cooling. But they offer them on eBay. I might just have to test the factory fan. Does that store the highest number? So I could tape it to the front while driving?
Electric Fans
Well after replacing the heater core(twice) and the radiator (more than twice) it would still creep up past 200 on hot days. New hd fan clutch and extra blade/s (mechanical) fan available from flexalite it was a little better but still not enough. Bought a universal duel fan like this one that mounts right up to the radiator surface. I made a custom mount so i could still use the factory mechanical fan and shroud. There is about a 5 inch space at the bottom and the top that the electric fan shroud doesn't cover. The universal kit also came with a adjustable fan controller. You need to place the sensor inside the upper radiator hose( this is the hot engine coolant going into the rad). For the most part this solved the high temps. Fast forward until the rad sprang a leak and i got a free replacement from radiator.com. What i found was the radiator i had in it didn't have as many cooling tubes as the replacement. After i put the replacement in it did cool better. Still not sure of the stock rad tube count because the rad on my Indy was replaced also. If anyone has a original radiator i would appreciate it if you could count the cooling tubes. This is something you need to watch out for when replacing the radiator. As far as the electric vs mechanical fans all my turbo 4 cylinder cars have only electric fans. As long as you can get the correct amount of cfm you won't have a problem. If anyone has one of these you can tell what the stock setup flows.
