RWAL=Rear Wheel Anti-lock. (as opposed to 4WAL, four wheel anti-lock)

The nut for the drive flange on the front diff? I think you want to tighten to some truly stupid value....... That is one I would consult the service manual for..... I think they are looking for some specific value of rotational torque require to turn the pinion......

 

not the front flange.. its the rear pinion seal nut.. for that rear end.. i did tighten with my impact gun set it for 450lbs and tightened but i know doesnt really tighen..
but i dont have that tool that guy had in the video.. also i cant torque it i dont know how to jam the wheels at moment so it doesnt turn since no brakes yet..
but i posted the pics of the rear pinion seal remember was leaking i posted pics but no one got back to me ...

and id say it just has RWAL then i just wanted to bleed it before i then bleed the system.. so was hoping to get the ABS air out without having to bleed it a second time.. i think guy said i needed to start truck or crank truck i did read u just turn key to on and the abs cycles, but that was a different dodge..

 

On a 4wal system, the motor/controller will cycle at initial key on, but, on the RWAL systems, it's just a dump valve. Just a pair of solenoids, so, nothing happens unless the system is actually needed. No need to pre-bleed it. Just bleed the brakes normally, and that should be all you need to do.

As for the pinion nut..... there is a specific procedure for that.... it's in the FSM as well, but, if you don't have the cool torque wrench, (inch pounds....) or the nifty tool to hold the flange in place.... Did you happen to mark the nuts relative location on there? If not, then run it tight, and turn the rear by hand. Should be fairly easy to turn with no brakes on it, but, there shouldn't be ANY slop in/out, side/side. Should turn smoothly as well.

 

ah ok then ya i just been bleeding normally.. ill gravity feed it tomorrow then open the the both rears and just fill and let it just drain in


as for the nut.. all i have is teh torqu bar up to 250ft lbs 1/2 drive but not that dial thingy i do have a torq bar my father used when he was alive yellow handle and a needle and it pointed that about it..
ya no tool i saw video guy just stuck his breaker bar in the slot but thats cuz it had a square hole this doesnt.. i did mark it.. but because i had to torch the the nut to get gun to remove it it burned it off

the reay is still semi tight those brake shoes still semi tight on the drums with them the adjusters screwed in.. and do u use lock tite? i saw 1 video the nut is cone shapped mine isnt.. one used red lock tite i just coated it in antisieze as you see in the pics

what i did do was set to 450ft lbs and tightened it and let it go 10 seconds after it snugged up but it never tightens that much plus gun worn out too its 20 yrs old. so i always have to heat the gun with a heater to get mroe power out of it,,

 

Generally the nuts are lock nuts of some flavor or other. If you think you have it where you want it, could always just stake it in place. (smack the edge with a hammer/chisel, so it won't loosen up.)

 

ah not this one.. just a regular nut i was able to hand spin it on it all the way..

so when you smack the edge with a chillsel is that like getting it to turn a little more? i was thinking to add some locktite andt hen re do it again 450 pound it and and then let the locktite to set?
and if so blue or red.. ya wish i had these special tools sometimes lol

 

The pinion nut plays a very important role in the gears. To tight or to loose and you'll be doing a gear change. What I would do is put the tires on and lower the truck that will stop it from spinning. There is a procedure for tightening it but since you didn't get the rotational torque in the beginning it's going to take some time. You will have to tighten it check it and keep repeating until there is no play in the yolk.

 

If your too tight your pinion nut torque the will pinion bearing will fail, same goes for being to loose. The mopar book says your suppose to use an in-pound torque wrench to measure bearing pre-load. Dana axles use shims and dodge axles use a crush sleeve. Crush sleeves are suppose to one time use only (lol). If the crush sleeve has been crushed too much you will never get enough preload on the pinion bearing.

I've done enough pinion bearing fixes over the years, I know by just turning the u-joint by hand. Of course both wheels have to be off the ground.

Wow that one crusty truck comet. I live in Alberta and my truck isn't rusty. My rear brakes stop working a long time ago and I've been too lazy to fix. I think that one of hoses are plugged up as I tried to bleed the brakes last fall and no fluid came out.

Typical I use 75-140 oil for LSD rear's (just cause they tend to run hotter than a non LSD rear)

 

I have worked on Dodge Dana 60s that used crush sleeves

 

so to to try to answer the last comments made
1.. i did finish the brakes and lowered the truck
1... ya this truck is rusty we use way too much salt here in ontario
2.. i didnt do any bearing replacement all i did was mark the nut.. then i torched the nut so i could loosen it with the air gun.. but of course it burned the mark. i should have marked with a scriber but i wouldnt been able to count how many turns as i gunnned it
3.. so i didnt do a pinin bearing replace i was only changing the Seal as the seal was leaking..

i did add 1litre and a bit of 75-140 to the real.. and to answer my 4x4 question forum i did some 75-140 for the front..
4.. yes i dont have a tool but i wasnt crushing n bearing.. is the crushing whats the purpose of it its it like a compressrion ring?...
so i fixed the brakes i lowered the truck and had a family member come over hold on the brakes and i read in the FSM it said 210lbs so i se the torque bar to 210
i coulndt do it so i put a floor jack on the torque bar and while holding the brakes i pumped to hope it click.. nothing it actually the brakes wont hold it moves the vehicle forward slightly even when pressing the brakes on hard.. so i see the hub turning slightly as i jack it up
so i dont have a tool to go in the holes i think u need to build one that jams in the ground and then screws in the holes.. or i was thinking straping the wheels to my tractor and till it binds so it cant turn i dunno

what can i do? and what is the procedure? so when you guys crush this thing when you first do it.. you must be doing more then 210 pounds as it crushing it past the nut tightness