00 rear brakes drums question
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Joined: Nov 2014
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so to to try to answer the last comments made
1.. i did finish the brakes and lowered the truck
1... ya this truck is rusty we use way too much salt here in ontario
2.. i didnt do any bearing replacement all i did was mark the nut.. then i torched the nut so i could loosen it with the air gun.. but of course it burned the mark. i should have marked with a scriber but i wouldnt been able to count how many turns as i gunnned it
3.. so i didnt do a pinin bearing replace i was only changing the Seal as the seal was leaking..
i did add 1litre and a bit of 75-140 to the real.. and to answer my 4x4 question forum i did some 75-140 for the front..
4.. yes i dont have a tool but i wasnt crushing n bearing.. is the crushing whats the purpose of it its it like a compressrion ring?...
so i fixed the brakes i lowered the truck and had a family member come over hold on the brakes and i read in the FSM it said 210lbs so i se the torque bar to 210
i coulndt do it so i put a floor jack on the torque bar and while holding the brakes i pumped to hope it click.. nothing it actually the brakes wont hold it moves the vehicle forward slightly even when pressing the brakes on hard.. so i see the hub turning slightly as i jack it up
so i dont have a tool to go in the holes i think u need to build one that jams in the ground and then screws in the holes.. or i was thinking straping the wheels to my tractor and till it binds so it cant turn i dunno
what can i do? and what is the procedure? so when you guys crush this thing when you first do it.. you must be doing more then 210 pounds as it crushing it past the nut tightness
1.. i did finish the brakes and lowered the truck
1... ya this truck is rusty we use way too much salt here in ontario
2.. i didnt do any bearing replacement all i did was mark the nut.. then i torched the nut so i could loosen it with the air gun.. but of course it burned the mark. i should have marked with a scriber but i wouldnt been able to count how many turns as i gunnned it
3.. so i didnt do a pinin bearing replace i was only changing the Seal as the seal was leaking..
i did add 1litre and a bit of 75-140 to the real.. and to answer my 4x4 question forum i did some 75-140 for the front..
4.. yes i dont have a tool but i wasnt crushing n bearing.. is the crushing whats the purpose of it its it like a compressrion ring?...
so i fixed the brakes i lowered the truck and had a family member come over hold on the brakes and i read in the FSM it said 210lbs so i se the torque bar to 210
i coulndt do it so i put a floor jack on the torque bar and while holding the brakes i pumped to hope it click.. nothing it actually the brakes wont hold it moves the vehicle forward slightly even when pressing the brakes on hard.. so i see the hub turning slightly as i jack it up
so i dont have a tool to go in the holes i think u need to build one that jams in the ground and then screws in the holes.. or i was thinking straping the wheels to my tractor and till it binds so it cant turn i dunno
what can i do? and what is the procedure? so when you guys crush this thing when you first do it.. you must be doing more then 210 pounds as it crushing it past the nut tightness
1. Get rotational torque rating with no drag. Remove drums and wheel if needed.
2. Remove yolk but and yolk.
3. Remove old seal install new one.
4. Tighten the nut slowly until the rotational torque is the same as recorded before disassembly.
Warning: Over torqing the nut will cause pinion lash to change and damage to differential can occur.
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Veteran
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ah well i guess i should never changed the seal is what the FSM manual is saying... since i dont have that rotational torque and all i thought was a simple seal change.. as right now i just trying to tighten it to 210lbs
so i guess its ruined? because i cant figure the right foot pounds or the rotational torque?
so i guess its ruined? because i cant figure the right foot pounds or the rotational torque?
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
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ah well i guess i should never changed the seal is what the FSM manual is saying... since i dont have that rotational torque and all i thought was a simple seal change.. as right now i just trying to tighten it to 210lbs
so i guess its ruined? because i cant figure the right foot pounds or the rotational torque?
so i guess its ruined? because i cant figure the right foot pounds or the rotational torque?
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i have no play when i removed the hub pried out the seal.. cleaned up the rust tapped in the new seal.. oiled seal. anitisez the splins ant the threads..
slid the hub on put the washer and nut and spun it on ..
no wiggle the only thing it has if u turn it left or right has a little play but thats probably the gear thing.. but it shoved on smooth no wiggle..
i cant even tigthen it to 210lbs if someone holds the brake and me using a car jack to force up the torque wrench i hit the vehicle and wont click i really need to dig a hole in the ground drive the truck over it and get in so i can ratchet it so far i cant
even tried jamming screw drivers in the holes to jam agaisnt the shaft so it wont move but just flexs
slid the hub on put the washer and nut and spun it on ..
no wiggle the only thing it has if u turn it left or right has a little play but thats probably the gear thing.. but it shoved on smooth no wiggle..
i cant even tigthen it to 210lbs if someone holds the brake and me using a car jack to force up the torque wrench i hit the vehicle and wont click i really need to dig a hole in the ground drive the truck over it and get in so i can ratchet it so far i cant
even tried jamming screw drivers in the holes to jam agaisnt the shaft so it wont move but just flexs
Legend
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 8,098
Likes: 318
i have no play when i removed the hub pried out the seal.. cleaned up the rust tapped in the new seal.. oiled seal. anitisez the splins ant the threads..
slid the hub on put the washer and nut and spun it on ..
no wiggle the only thing it has if u turn it left or right has a little play but thats probably the gear thing.. but it shoved on smooth no wiggle..
i cant even tigthen it to 210lbs if someone holds the brake and me using a car jack to force up the torque wrench i hit the vehicle and wont click i really need to dig a hole in the ground drive the truck over it and get in so i can ratchet it so far i cant
even tried jamming screw drivers in the holes to jam agaisnt the shaft so it wont move but just flexs
slid the hub on put the washer and nut and spun it on ..
no wiggle the only thing it has if u turn it left or right has a little play but thats probably the gear thing.. but it shoved on smooth no wiggle..
i cant even tigthen it to 210lbs if someone holds the brake and me using a car jack to force up the torque wrench i hit the vehicle and wont click i really need to dig a hole in the ground drive the truck over it and get in so i can ratchet it so far i cant
even tried jamming screw drivers in the holes to jam agaisnt the shaft so it wont move but just flexs
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
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From: Clayton MI
Well, consider, you are trying to torque the nut to north of 200Ft/lbs.... even with 3.55 gears, that is north of 700 ft/lbs to the drums....... Not surprised the brakes won't hold it. 
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so how do you do it? i saw on amazon this pinion plate for that johnson bar i saw.. but they dont like it the metal is too thin.. but is that how you need to do it? or is there something else?
well frig what good are brakes if they cant handle 700 foot lbs? cheap *** brakes lol how do u know that math? is that 3.55 x 200?
and i think the FSM said minimum is 210 like if that is true how u know how tight to torque it.. and doesnt the more torque u put on the nut just cause the loading bushing just crimp more?
what is the purpose if your still going to torque to a certain pressure..
i figured if i had a stencile of that pinion plate i could trace it on some metal so i could bolt it to it and maybe weld a arm to it..
and since i dont know the preload from what it was is that serious?
well frig what good are brakes if they cant handle 700 foot lbs? cheap *** brakes lol how do u know that math? is that 3.55 x 200?
and i think the FSM said minimum is 210 like if that is true how u know how tight to torque it.. and doesnt the more torque u put on the nut just cause the loading bushing just crimp more?
what is the purpose if your still going to torque to a certain pressure..
i figured if i had a stencile of that pinion plate i could trace it on some metal so i could bolt it to it and maybe weld a arm to it..
and since i dont know the preload from what it was is that serious?
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,394
Likes: 4,213
From: Clayton MI
If you look in the FSM, they have a spec for pinion torque to turn it with 'used' gears. (or was it bearings?) I don't remember what it was just offhand. But, going by that wouldn't be a bad idea.
Where I worked, we had various weapons of hand to axle combat, for just such an occasion. I've even used a LARGE pipe wrench, with a cheater pipe to hold the pinion yoke in place while I torqued it down.
Where I worked, we had various weapons of hand to axle combat, for just such an occasion. I've even used a LARGE pipe wrench, with a cheater pipe to hold the pinion yoke in place while I torqued it down.