Comet 424
OK - ignore my pic suggesting you change the primary spring attachment point.
I do not have a Dodge Ram pickup for reference .. I have experience with older 1st, 2nd, and the last generation of Dodge vans.

#1 you should not crisscross the springs at the top pin. The hooks of the springs should lie flat against each other.

#2 You asked about this early on ... YES, the anchor plate should fit onto the top pin neatly. File the ID of the hole in the anchor plate if necessary, for a loose fit.

This chap had the same series rear brakes as you. He took numerous pics before dismantling but he had problems getting the drums on.
Check out his thread:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-pictures.html

 

so i got them on finally.. and those pics from that link really helped i had the cable to the adjuster hooked up wrong.. i didnt have it hooked to the spring orginally hooked to it but bracket part.
and the comments above.. the criss cross i didnt notice had to double check and then i fixed it... and the anchor plate i filled it lot to get it in there.. also from the link i didnt install those warped washers.. guess it goe between the emerg cable arm and the brake shoe.,.
but since i not hooking up emerg i didnt bother to re take apart to put it in.. plus it didnt have it.

but i used wire wheel and really worked all the way around several times.. and i didnt get it on like the guy in the article.. i had to hit it on too but it went on..
and brakes old ones were still relative good shape last time i did them maybe 6 yrs ago.. i dont drive it much reason probably so much build up of rust in there..
plus i not hard on the brakes.. so it hardly wore and or didnt work that well

now i noticed why there was crud in that vent pipe... i checked the hose to pull out the plastic.. but there was none i guess they just chopped it off and and vented the with open hose..
i gonna tackle changing that seal.. and add oil can i mix oil as i dont know whats in there...
and i can turn the rims do u adjust the adjusters when the tires are on as its a hell to tryt to spin it... as i not sure do i adjust brakes before i hook the new lines up to the rubber hose and block.. or after.. as i gotta try to get the old one out of the holder... but least i finally ahead
and i tried googling parts for the truck the vent bolt and vent breather... can you verify these are them.. i going to try to see carquest can get them.. i emailed 2 dealers but im sure they expensive

https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-...bolt-4137696ab
https://www.moparpartscanada.ca/oem-...-vent-j5352955


oh ya forgot.. Happy New Year Guys!!!!

 

so i put the pass side tire on and try spinning its still tough it doesnt spin freely. like the wheel of fortune... and the floor shifter is set to N so i can spin shaft with truck off..
is it supposed to be tight.. so then i dont need any adjustment screwed all the way in is just good enough?? and this doesnt have a washer between the adjuster and the one head that pops out but iadded lot of antisieze in there so hopefully i dont need?

plus i dont have the brake lines bled waiting to find out from mopar cananda if those 2 linkes i posted are for a 2000 dodge ram 1500.. plus i emailed 2 dodge dealers... as i was thinking maybe its tight from the brake calipers not bled yet..

i gonna try to unhook that rubber hose connection underneath from above so i can put the new one in there.. this sure a rust bucket but seems sold still

 

Once you have your brake hydraulics back together, and bled out good. Stand on the pedal a couple times to get the shoes properly centered, and see if the wheel turns easier. Keep in mind, it is going to require some effort, as there is a lotta stuff you are turning. If you have a limited slip rear, there is even more you are turning.

 

well i have no idea what slippage i got both wheels in the air so all slippery surface lol but ok i going to replace the seal might as well right blown out.... so u dont need to do that adjusting with the screw driver then

so another question i cant get that hose off that old bracket is so rust up there.. and i see its a bolted on bracket.. so i pb blastered both sides.. of the bolt well what i could reach.. but looking at the new one..
i cant reall make a new one.. this is a Hex not a circle so i cant drill a hex lol
can you buy a new Bracket to hold that hose ? how does it hold in there.. as looking at the new hose .. it just has a c Clip but you cant stop it from moving forward or back but then i see it has 2 slots but only comes with 1 Clip maybe its supposed to have 2??​​​​​​​

 

so pb blaster isnt helping i tried to pry the old brake line out of the bracket but its not working either figured chip the rust away

was thinking to ziptie the line but its probably gonna still make the brake line to flex... anyt suggestions was gonna try heat but dont think little propane bottle will help

 

Wow.... that is REALLY corroded. The line coming back doesn't look so good either. I would be tempted to replace that now, while you are right there. (and, it has to come apart anyway.....)

Not sure you can even get that bracket any more... maybe from a junkyard in the southwest, where rust isn't quite an issue? I think the bracket has a hex hole in it, that the line inserts into, and the clips hold it in place. Did they give you a loose clip? I don't think the one that is on there is going to be re-usable......

But, cut the line, near the nut. (hard line) drown it in chemicals for a day or three, then use a six-point socket on it, and see if it will come loose. If not, just try and get the outer clip off, and pull the the soft line with that fitting still in there..... Get a long enough section of brake line from your local parts store, and replace it all the way forward. Should be able to get the out clip off the line, and see if it will separate from the bracket....

 

ya welcome to canada where we use alot of salt.. actually i already ran a line.. it probably not in the pic.. im trying new type of line the copper kind.. it bends easier and supposed to last longer.. then the green painted lines.. i using the steel ones for the left and right for the front and the back.. and the copper from front to back.. maybe i take a pic of the trailer hitch tommorow or so maybe you can tell me if its still in pulling shape of its its no good..

i thinking of grinding off the bolt and punching it through i tryied bolt extractor and it was spinning no matter if it felt tight by hand
no they didnt give loose clips just 1 in the bag go figure eh.,

ya remember how i said truck has covid guess i right eh lol..,.. ill spray it again and try 6 bolt but what a pain i tell ya.. soon ill have a new truck on old parts lol old frame lol

 

so i cut the bolt off and punched it through i emailed chrysler if they can get this part but it seems that it has like a backing or so

but i got it soaking in water/muradic acid now

 

so i talked to dodge dealer locally hes got all the parts i guess so i going to pick it up
he didnt get back to me for the front 4x4 oil
but he said i need

The rear axle fluid is 75w140 synthetic ( 698218657ab ) it takes 2.5 liters also need the limited slip additive 4318060ad and its 4 FL OZ

so what is this additive for?