the guy earlier posted you need to use the tool to get the torque prior to taking it off
but the FSM says minum 210
so is it 210 or more?
what i confused is if you were to do i a new preload thingy.. ud have to torque it past 210lbs to crush it to ur specific preload.. and then ur set it to 210? or a minimum so u could tightne to 300 as long as 300 wasnt what crushed it..
very confusing


so maybe you need to bring that tool here to ontario.. worse comes to worse i get mister transmission to do it i dont think driving it and having it tight somewhat isnt gonna hurt just to get them

all i thought was a simple change the seal. not more headaches lol its just a stupid seal

and the book says u use this tool.
Miller Tools 6719A Differential Pinion Yoke Holder Chrysler Dana Axle NEW 6719 | eBay

yet
amazon and others i saw now use

 

I am referring to the torque required to turn the pinion, not the torque for the nut.

 

i thought u just said u needed big bars to torque the nut down not turn the pinion

im just confused.. on how this preload works.. if were to put a new one in.. and torqued it to 210 isnt it set right?
or is you mean to set a preload u need great bars so to set a preload takes like 700lbs so then i probably didnt damage the preload with my little 450 gun that cant really 450 nothing unless i stick in front of a heater

i jsut dont wanna hear you need to take it apart and replace this thing and should had a transmission place do it lol .. as fixed the 4x4 and the brakes filled both with the oil. i just dont need to hear that as i havent even fired it up yet

 

We are dealing with two different torque values here, and it gets confusing.

Now, according to theory, if you removed the pinion nut, you should replace the crush sleeve as well.... (it's between the two pinion bearings) I don't always do that if I am just changing a seal...... The incredibly high torque value for the nut, is because you actually need to crush the crush sleeve. (assuming you replaced it....)

Since you didn't replace it..... You want to tighten the pinion nut down, until you get the proper rotational torque value required to turn the pinion gear. (and the rest of the stuff in the rear axle......) So, essentially, you want to run your pinion nut tight, (as you can get it with the tools at hand....) and check the amount of torque required to turn the pinion. Too Low? Tighten the nut some more.

If you have a reasonable size pipe wrench, and a pipe that will fit over it's handle, you can use the pipe wrench to hold the yoke, and let the pipe jam against the frame of the truck. That way, you aren't wasting some of your torque lifting the truck, instead of tightening the nut.....

 

some reason my last email didnt post ..
so i got the 4x4 working on the truck figure reply here for now i had to zip tie the 2 vacume lines at the actuator
but do you know why the floor shifter so hard to shift.. i had it in 4L and i couldnt even get it out.. felt i needed a come a long attached to it to get it out .. driving forward backward didnt help but it came out but u really have to hammer it at times

so for the rear end.. i built a tool so i could tighten that nut to 210lbs or a bit more.. dont laugh at my welds i not a welder my father was a welder and he didnt want me to weld as i half blind and didnt want me to loose my vison... but my thing worked

i tested truck breaks work but how do i get them like when u use a rental thats new you press 1/4" of the pedal and shes braking.. i still have to press 1-2 inchs before it braking... and the rear still tight i guess from that issues i had getting drums on i did spin them the turned like 1/4 but i guess the rears need the adjustment i take it but not 100% sure since the drums were semi tight like i mentioned when getting this crap together..
least the crap is all together

 

You just have to torque up the pinion until you have some light drag on the pinion bearing. You can notice it just by turning it by hand. I use my impact to torque mine up. Just a few wraps and check the drag. If you have no drag, you will need a new crush sleeve. Without the preload your pinion is gonna wiggle all over the place and ruin the pinion seal (start to fret the pinion gear as well). The drag is suppose to be 10-15 in*lbs but not ft*lbs, you can put a bolt into the yoke and do the check.

Your torque wrench isn't gonna like you after using the floor jack , thankfully there cheap.

 

ah ok my father had the other torque bar with a needle i just tightened up the nut till i got 210 ft pounds and then a little bit more now since i never changed the crush sleve didnt even tak the rear end apart.. i shouldnt have to worry about it right? and the pinon seemed tight but i never touched it
just removed the nut with heat.. then the hub slide right off easily.. i pryed out the old seal.. cleaned it antisiezed it then shoved it in and the hub etc..

so then i just built that bar to hold the hub and then used the floor jack to tighten it up
isnt that good enough or do i still need to worry?

and i still havent gotten brakes to feel like brand new
and i found that the brake light stays on unless when put my foot behind the pedal and pull like 1/16" is there an adjustment? i was thinking wraping some electrical tape around the shaft of the pedal to give like a 1/16 1/8" thickness so the light will go out