Everything feels smooth. Everything but the ps pump and tensioner (which has a new pulley) are new in the last 5000 miles. The ac is disconnected in the clip since I left the system open (no rad or condenser on the truck right now). I did however take and work the tensioner across its full range of movement an now the noise is gone, I think I may put some dry chain lube in there to help it out. I did notice with the misfire that tensioner does move quite a bit as the load changes. Now I am just waiting on my tuner to hear if the cam senor reading 15 degrees early can be compensated for and if he thinks that's related to the misfire.

 

Let us know if you think this might help when you get to fine tuning. Redrill the cam gear for some offset bushings. The gear snugs down over the nose of the cam, need a larger hardened washer pretty sure and orient the drilled hole correctly. OBD I cam gear I believe, yours is very similar. Haven't got to this point yet on mine,I'd be curious for feedback.

 

Another easy upgrade. ARP rocker studs for a V-8 Magnum, P/N 144-7201. You'll need extras to make up for two additional cylinders. Went to a lot of trouble finding heads to rebuild that were not cracked. The old forum posters had issues with bolts breaking/pulling out/cracking pedestals. I had a broken bolt on one of my spare engines.Since I ended up using slightly stiffer LS1 dual springs on my rebuild, figured this would help.

 

Did you have to have the heads milled/tapped for the studs? I believe the stockers are press in, aren't they?

Another advantage the screw in studs offer: An adjustable valvetrain.

 

No tapping, the stockers are long 5/16 bolts. It looks like the last couple years of the V10 were tapped for the 3/8 bolts common to the Viper, those heads are very rare. Also the fulcrum point does not change, so no adjustability change.

 

Not adjustable??? Do the nuts bottom on the threads??

 

Yes that looks Identical to my cam gear. Now here is what we figured out, the fuel sync is set by the cam sensor and there is no adjustment in the PCM so its either stock cam or try this. I honestly didn't know this was an option but hey learning a ton on this project. I don't know if this would work or not, even at 8 degrees. Right now with the timing marks lined up I am on a 118 center line. That would put me on a 110 and I need to be on a 106. However the 118 was taken with a the old timing chain and that had 6 degrees of play so maybe if 2-3 degrees are taken up with the new chain, it would be close 108-107 centerline. I will have to think hard on this but if I can find a spare gear I may try it out. I might just try it as I'm stubborn as **** and don't give up to easily on problems, how I became a Chem Lab instructor/Coordinator at the local university with only a double bachelor's degree. When I got my heads an intakes to work on the people gave me a front cover and timing chain, I don't know if there was a spare gear in there but I will take a look. I will keep the arp rocker stud in mind as I am running mopar performance springs for a v8. I was just about to throw in the factory cam. I have had a few health issues, some related to this actually, and I can't keep working on this much more as those health issues have prevented me from doing other projects. This cam swap actually ended sending me to the ER in January for a very strange but common issue and caused it to come back a few weeks ago.

 

All you are doing is changing the bolt for a stronger stud since he is still running the stamped stockers. They are paired and must be torqued down like the v8s to 21ft lbs so they sit flat on the mounting spot on the head. Otherwise they would be floating and unstable.

 

Chevy uses a similar system, press in, threaded studs, (screw in studs are an aftermarket upgrade) with locking nuts to adjust the valves. Worked great for decades...... How are these different?

 

The fulcrum bolts through to the pedestal on the head. The rocker floats up against it with the lifters pumped up. The bottom of the fulcrum on the V-10 is prone to scuffing and possibly seizure in poorly maintained engines, maybe why the bolts would break. The fulcrum is from a Viper, shows the 3/8 bolt, Magnums were 5/16. Viper rockers were the same as Magnum until the Gen III cast steel roller rocker here. That roller uses the similar bolt through design. Viper roller rockers could be used on a V-10, but you'd have to fab the little spacer/retaining plate, valve centers are different.